critic reviews
Fresh apple strongly marked by its seeds makes for an at once juicy and bitterly concentrated impression, and a firm feel, along with stony and alkaline undertones, pulls this performance in an austere direction. The finish clings with oily piquancy while revealing intriguingly smoky and iodine-like notes. This is certainly Wehlener Sonnenuhr in a very different key from that adopted by most of this site’s prominent shareholders, although I sense a similarly to the Grosses Gewächs from von Kesselstatt, and this year’s Loosen Grosses Gewächs from the site is also unusually austere even by the standards of its genre. I’m very cautious in my prognostication of ageworthiness because I don’t expect the bitterness to recede and I imagine that the overall impression may be even more austere after a few years in bottle.