Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg, Riesling, Superior, 2022

Our favourite of the three “Superior” bottlings this year, the Abtsberg has a come-hither lightly smoky, spontaneous, reductive feel that makes way for animated green fruits once it opens up. Edgy initially, crystalline, it is lightly grippy in a good way, giving a sense of race and detail. The “Superior” Feinherb benefits from the same selection and handling as the GGs but is allowed to ferment to a natural stop. Being just off-dry at 12-14g, it makes for a wonderful food partner.