Domaine Rostaing En Primeur 2024: Leading lights in Cote Rotie

Domaine Rostaing is now run by the charming Pierre Rostaing, who is producing wines in much the same way as his father Rene. As he says, “we are blessed with old vines and if the parcels express themselves well and we pick at the right time then we will be satisfied”. Never is this demonstrated better than in vintages that test the mettle of even the most celebrated producers. Followers of this estate will be delighted to hear that 2024 has delivered Cote Roties that recall the sort of snappy, crunchy, low alcohol wines that made them famous in the first place.

Thanks to plentiful rainfall the berries were full of juice, in stark contrast to 2022 and 2023, where hot conditions produced thicker skins and deeper, more tannic wines. A 20-25 day cuvaison on all the wines in 2024 with Rostaing’s customary whole cluster preference meant that other than the wines having a more accessible and digest style (averaging just 12.5% alcohol), the quality of their single plots, on the steep slopes, meant that very few changes were made in the cellar.

As ever, the estate’s flagship Ampodium cuvee offers layers of wild berries with supporting spice and a cooling, wiry and invigorating freshness. This is floral, transparent Syrah that will delight in the first few years. La Viailliere is back this year, such is its distinction in barrel – a model of violet, brine and powdery acidity that Pierre describes as being “super classic.” La Landonne is darker fruited with a more serious tannic spine and longer term potential. Cote Blonde is the aristocratic, stylistic blend of the previous two cuvees – a true Northern Rhone great – whilst Cote Brune is fantastically tense and spicy, with notes of camphor, licorice and citrus – a hugely impressive bottle, produced in tiny quantities. The Condrieu La Bonnette continues to win over hearts and minds for its floral, citrus and white fruited profile. 2024 is naturally suited to this clean and bright style of Viognier.