Chassagne Montrachet, Les Chenevottes, 1er Cru, 2021

The first wine in the line-up serves to reinforce the impression the 2020s made on us; there are clearly good things happening at Gagnard at present. A light touch of smoky reduction frames salty citrus notes picked out with great definition. On the palate lovely crystalline fruit, touches of almond and citrus flesh with crisp acidity. Impressive depth and energy here, but there’s some balancing flesh too. Sleek stony notes on the finish. A vineyard located at the northern edge of the village, on the Saint-Aubin side towards the bottom of the hill. The slope is gentle but enough to ensure good drainage. The soil is light clay mixed with iron-rich pebbles. Organically farmed. Ageing for 18 months half in used barrels, half in tank.