
Philipponnat, Le Léon, Extra Brut, 2015
It is in vintages like 2015 that great terroirs shine brightest. In a warm and very dry vintage like 2015,the magnificence of Clos des Goisses, a vineyard that never struggles for ripeness, is doublyimpressive. There’s undeniable power and depth to the ‘15, but beyond that, there’s remarkableclarity, control, and crispness, all of which seems to stem from the underlying chalky element thataccompanies the wine right across the palate and through the highly persistent finish. Choosing toharvest late, so as to achieve true balance while avoiding the astringency that is possible in such dryseasons, Charles Philipponnat has crafted a Clos des Goisses of high ripeness but also high style. Theextract, the structure, the chalk notes all serve to drive this wine forwards, while flavours ofumeboshi plum, salt and candied bergamot provide beauty and keep you coming back for more. Thisis a deep, bold, muscular Goisses, yet one that never loses sight of its origins; a masterclass inChampagne’s ability to be both great and graceful. The blend in 2015 comprises 78% Pinot Noir, 22%Chardonnay. For the very first time every element in the blend was fermented in oak and as usual, nomalo-lactic fermentation was carried out.
critic reviews
The 2015 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is a powerful, resonant wine, just as it was last year. In 2015, all of the lots were vinified in oak, which lends notable textural resonance and poise. Pear, spicecake, ginger, dried flowers and a kiss of oak are all dialed up. There is an underlying vegetal note lurking beneath, typical of the year, but it's nicely integrated. The long finish is striking. The 2015 opens beautifully with air, gaining in both precision and tension. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2024.
Surpassing the 2010, the 2015 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is gorgeous, evoking aromas of pear, mirabelle, spices, honey, brioche and perfectly ripe orchard fruits intertwined with delicate notes of iodine. Full-bodied, vinous and concentrated, it's layered and dense with remarkable depth at the core combined with racy acids and a structured, perfectly balanced mid-palate. Slightly austere at this stage, it finishes long and sappy with a licorice-inflected aftertaste. This blend of 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay, disgorged in March 2024 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, did not undergo malolactic fermentation. Readers eager to experience this superb Champagne at its peak should be patient.
The Clos des Goisses 2015 is a blend of 78% Pinot Noir and 22% Chardonnay that was 100% barrel fermented and finished with a 4.5 grams per liter dosage. Faint reductive notes blow off to reveal wonderfully fresh, creamy aromas of gariguette strawberry, rhubarb, vervain, crushed oyster shell and lightly toasted brioche. Medium-bodied with a pure, ripe fruit core and stimulating acidity adding a shimmering vibrancy to the delicate, pinpoint mousse. Overall this 2015 has a beautifully restrained, high-toned intensity that resonates like the constant tone of a tuning fork through the long, ethereal finish. Disgorged March 2024 (tasted four months post-disgorgement).18285 bottles produced. LGS15B4136EB
Vibrant and vivid in its pale gold colour and bright aromatics, this is an exceptionally impressive Champagne, elderflower, citrus, persistent lift with gentle pulses of fresh acidity set against richer brioche and toasted almond. Fermented half stainless steel and half in Burgundy barrels. 4.5g/l dosage, Thierry Garnier winemaker.
product details
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