Cornas, Reynard, 2005

(this is essentially the Chaillot with the addition of old-vines Reynard) Opaque purple. Explosive, room-filling bouquet of ripe blue and black fruits, fresh flowers, Asian spices and smoky minerals. Deep, sweet and velvety, with bracing cassis and boysenberry flavors, amazing mineral lift and hefty but fine-grained tannins. Extremely impressive and built to repay extended cellaring. (Allemand's 2006s were scheduled to be bottled in early December, two weeks after my visit. I tasted three stunning lots, with the Reynard especially palate-staining, but Allemand had not yet decided how he could combine these three components into two bottlings.)