Château Clerc Milon Rothschild, 5ème Cru Classé, Pauillac,

Touch of reduction at first, but as it opens this just sings with purity of cassis, bilberry, blackberry puree, liqourice root, chocolate drops, earth. Speaks with the same voice as the great early vintages of 1982, 1990 but with more precision, depth and clarity, a brilliant vintage that is tasting so good right now. A significant year in Clerc Milon's history also - Jean-Emmaneul Danjoy arived from Opus One, giving Clerc its own dedicated team for the first time, and the new cellar was officially unveiled, meaning it was possible to separately vinify the Petit Verdot and Carmanère, that had been co-fermented until this point. The second wine Pastourelle de Clerc Milon was also introduced this year, further increasing selection. Harvest September 23 to 13 October, 50% new oak.

The 2009 Clerc-Milon has a rather conservative bouquet that seems to have closed down in recent years, yet retains fine delineation with blackberry, wild hedgerow and subtle cassis, almost ink-like aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, surprisingly high in acidity given the vintage with a slightly muddled finish. I have encountered better bottles. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.