It is usually the other way round but at the moment the Les-St.-Georges is more closed and less flamboyant thant the Vaucrains, this is no lack of depth or structure however. This is profoundly concentrated and ample, packed with intense small crunchy red and black berry fruit with touches of sloe and kirsch. Aeration allows this to become a little more expressive but remains on the reserved side of opulent, no bad thing. Not over the top but not shy either. This has the makings of a top class 1er Cru. The great vineyard of Nuits, many people believe it should be elevated to Grand Cru status.
Henri Gouges started Domaine-bottling in the 1920s and as such are one of Burgundy's pioneering estates. Henri's grandsons Pierre and Christian have been looking after production for the last two decades and have been responible for carving out the Domaine's great reputation for uniquely muscular, long-lived Burgundies. As from the 2007 vintage Gregory, Christian's nephew, who has been working at the Domaine since 2003, is making the wines and has made an immediate impact. His aim is for less extraction in the wines through a collection of numerous small details in the winemaking process, including more use of gravity in the cellars and less pumping of the wines. His changes are not totally wholesale, though, and he still clearly sticks to the Domaine's reserved, traditional approach to making wine. Stems are not included in fermentation but use of new oak is fairly limited. The resultant wines are pure, high-toned, certainly not flashy, and powerful but not unwieldy, they give immense pleasure. An exciting new dawn for a benchmark Burgundian Domaine.