Cabernet Sauvignon, Philip Togni Vineyard, 2021
Smiling to myself having just tasted the Tanbark Hill, Lisa Togni’s main wine stops me in my tracks. Yes, it has been widely praised, awarded triple digit scores, named wine of the year by Antoni Galloni, but none of that prepares you for the precision, power and verticality of this wine. Tightly wound around spiralling and very fine tannins you catch coruscating glimpses of cracked herb, fine berry fruit, rocky minerality and aromatic mountain flora. As it wends and snakes its way across the palate it leaves a wake of pure Cabernet essence in its path – a haunting trail of Cabernet perfume. Intense, yet deft with it, with a long and elongated finish, this is a reference point Togni wine; perfectly constructed with no make-up, no gloss, just a sense of calm intensity, purity and place. The very definition of mountain excitement. One for the cellar, and the ages.
critic reviews
Possibly the best wine produced here since the terrific 2001 or 1991, Togni's 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate comes across as rather cool and fresh, with gentle grace notes of mountain sage lending nuance to the predominantly red-berried fruit, tinged with cassis, mint and cedar. It's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and firm, with silky tannins and refreshing acids providing ample structure and amplifying the lingering, elegant finish.
The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with 15% Merlot and traces of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple in color, it bursts from the glass with bold notions of blackcurrant jelly, juicy black plums, and wild blueberries followed by hints of crushed rocks, cardamom, licorice, and tar plus a fragrant touch of violets. The medium-bodied palate is tightly wound with black fruit and mineral layers, framed by firm, ripe, grainy tannins and wonderful tension, finishing long with loads of ferrous and earthy sparks.
Togni's 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate reminds me of the 1994 in its savory profile and chocolatey tannins. A gorgeous, deep wine, the Estate is laced with generous dark fruit, gravel, spice, leather, dried herbs and mocha. Although it was racked just a month before this tasting, the Togni Cabernet is one of my early favorites in 2021.