
Petrus, Pomerol, 2013
Olivier Berrouet's 100% Merlot 2013 Chateau Petrus is an admirable successor to the profound 2012. Texturally, this is as suave as it gets. The blue clay soils here have produced one of the most graceful and harmonious wines of the vintage. There is a beautiful bouquet of sweet compote fruit, mulberries and decadent cherries; this is polished with such a silky texture and fine grained tannins. A staggeringly beautiful, feminine Petrus.
critic reviews
The 2013 Petrus is medium garnet in color. It rolls out with expressive notions of black cherry compote, cassis, rose oil, and licorice, followed by suggestions of spice cake, fertile loam, and crushed rocks. The medium-bodied palate is laden with youthful red and black fruit layers, supported by fine-grained tannins and compelling tension, finishing long and fragrant. This is a triumph for this vintage!
The 2013 Petrus has a somewhat dour nose, and compared to the Lafleur, it lacks fruit intensity and freshness. There is an underlying herbaceous element here. The palate is medium-bodied with somewhat dry tannins, moderate weight and fine acidity. Given the peppery finish, you might presume there was some Cabernet Franc in the blend. But it is a bit facile within this estate's pantheon of great wines. Tasted at Bordeaux Index's 10-Year On tasting.
In contrast to many estates, Petrus believes ‘above all you should not chaptilise; you need to take what nature gives you and make the most of it. Nature is the boss’. These were the words of winemaker Olivier Berrouet when I was tasting the En Primeur version of this wine, and it was clearly a sensible choice because it still feels unforced and full of pleasure at 10 years old. You'll find both grip and character, the tannins offering finely-boned architecture for the blueberry and blackberry fruit, and there's a kick of life through the finish. Confident, deft winemaking and in many ways an excellent way to approach Petrus and understand a little bit what it is about - although the price difference from other vintages doesn't reflect the difference in concentration and ageing potential. Harvest took place over three days, 2-4-6 October, bringing in a yield of 25 hl/h compared to 33 hl/h in 2012.
The 2013 Petrus was bottled in June 2015, a month before I visited the property to taste with winemaker, Olivier Berrouet. "The idea was to not push too much," he told me. "We didn't use too much wood - around 45% new oak. It would be 55% in a good vintage. The pH is 3.55 and it has 13.5% alcohol." It has quite a deep colour for a 2013, very clear and lucid. The nose is undeniably very attractive, gently unfolding with black cherries, iodine, pot pourri and a touch of bilberry. The aromatics are gentle and unassuming, yet still very Pomerol and still very Petrus. The palate is medium-bodied and for a 2013 it is certainly well structured, the tannins imparting a grainy mouthfeel. At the moment it feels saline in the mouth, fresh and with absolutely no sign of greenness. It is a successful wine within the context of the 2013 vintage and I appreciated the sharpness on what you might call its "clinical" finish. There is not so much in the way of persistence here and it departs out the exit door swiftly rather than abruptly. No, it is not the best Petrus ever made, not by a long chalk, nevertheless it is undoubtedly better than off-vintages in the past such as the 1986 and 1996. Tasted July 2016.
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