
Petrus, Pomerol, 2018
Is there a more handsome wine in Bordeaux than Petrus? I don't think so, and on this evidence the gap is widening. This is pure seduction in a glass. It has everything: grandeur, complexity, elegance and the most wonderful velour tannins, yet there is nothing forced or heavy, this has understated beauty, pure refinement and class, a calm authority and statesmanlike presence. There is a gentle fragrance, so sensual and alluring. The aromas develop displaying ripe damsons, griotte and flowers. The palate is seductive and opulent yet controlled - there's no excess, just enough flesh and fruit to tantalise. On the finish there is real finesse and power. Understated, well-mannered tannins grip the palate and leave the mouth refreshed with salty berry flavours, terrific detail and poise, such effortless charm. In a vintage when nature has provided some elements in excess, Petrus remains true to itself. Even with 14.5% alcohol and a relatively high pH of 3.7, this is regal and understated, calm and effortless - a classic Petrus in the very best sense.
critic reviews
The 2018 Petrus has a deep garnet purple color. It skips out of the glass with lifted scents of Morello cherries, redcurrant jelly, and fresh mulberries, plus suggestions of black olives, truffles, and underbrush. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is very firm and taut with ripe, grainy tannins and muscular fruit, finishing long and earthy. Typically for this vineyard, it will require patience!
In a vintage that favoured Merlot, it's hard to ignore that Petrus should be on your list of wines to lay down. You won't even have to wait as long as in years such as 2016 or 2019 for this Petrus to come around, as the tannins are a little more pliable than you usually find in the early years. But there is kick and concentration here, with fleshy damson and cassis fruits, plush and luxurious with cocoa pod, grilled almonds, graphite and cigar box. 50% new oak, 3.6ph. 37hl/ha yield. Brilliant stuff from winemaker Olivier Berrouet.
The 2018 Pétrus, matured in 50% new oak, was assessed over a period of 24 hours. It has a magnificent nose, replete with intense black currant, crushed violet and vanilla-y scents, the latter becoming subsumed with modest aeration. These aromas are chiseled to the <em>n</em>th degree and as harmonious as the Everly Brothers. The palate is, to use the phrase I employed out of barrel, quintessential Pétrus. The tannins are less grainy and lend this Pétrus a beguiling satiny veneer that is irresistible. Deep and gently gripping in the mouth, it has retained the clarity and pixelation I noted in barrel. The stunning tension and cohesion toward the finish will leave you with a Cheshire Cat grin plastered all over your face. I maintain that this is among Olivier Berrouet’s finest Pétrus to date.
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