Le Montrachet, Grand Cru, 2011

(from vines on the Chassagne side; three of seven barrels were new, the rest one year old): Pale straw-yellow. High-toned, expressive aromas and flavors of lime, peach, iodine and spicy oak. Large-scaled, spicy and deep, as tactile as a solid without coming across as obviously phenolic. A real essence of Burgundy in its density and concentration. Wonderfully integrated acidity leavens and extends the explosive, smooth finish. No rough edges here. This is 13.6% alcohol but is neither overripe nor lacking in acid spine. (As high as my score is today, the 2010 version is still likely to surpass this wine in the long run.)