Château Cos d'Estournel, 2eme Cru Classé, St Estèphe, 2005

The 2005 Cos Estournel is a vintage that I had not tasted for several years, made in the temporary winery at the time using a vertical press and peristaltic pumps for the first time. Deep in colour with light bricking on the rim, it has a thoroughly enjoyable nose that has matured a little since my last encounter: blackberry, loam, hints of star anise and sage emerge. Strangely, there is something a little Burgundian about this Saint-Estèphe. The palate is full-bodied with grippy tannins and notes of chocolate chip and candied orange peel, savoury and a little animally in style. I think it has lost a soupçon of elegance in the interim since it feels assertive on the finish, but I feel that five or six hours' decanting would smooth its edges. Tasted at the château.

DRINKING WINDOW 2027 - 2050

date of review 06/2025

Vibrant, with stately ruby red depths, touches of smoked oak, grilled cocoa bean and liqourice. This is powerful, with depths to the slate-strewn tannins. Tobacco, saffron, sage, crushed stones, baked earth, there is an opulent ripeness to the fruit, just on the precipice of tertiary. A lovely wine, big shouldered still with a few years before reaching its plateau. A few years ago I wrote of the Cos 2005, 'Good luck trying to predict when this wine will reach its end', and I still absolutely stand by that comment. 100% new oak.

DRINKING WINDOW 2022 - 2050

date of review 09/2022

The 2005 Cos d'Estournel is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-brick in color, it delivers blackcurrant pastilles, baked plums, and blackberry pie scents with smoked meats, cigar box, new leather, and dusty soil hints in the background. Full-bodied, concentrated, and muscular, it has firm, fine-grained tannins and seamless freshness, finishing long and mineral-laced. Drinking well now, it should cellar through 2045 and beyond. In 2000, Michel Reybier - former food mogul and subsequent owner of the La Reserve group of luxury hotels, spas and restaurants - purchased this property. Jean-Guillaume Prats, Bruno’s son, was asked by Reybier to stay on for a period as the managing director of the estate and it has to be said that he treated the property with the same passion and shared vision for greatness as ever. In 2004, Dominique Arangoits came on board as winemaker and remains today as the humble, down-to-earth orchestrator and rock of this estate.

DRINKING WINDOW 2022 - 2045

date of review 07/2022