Château Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Margaux, 2005
Weighing in at 13%, the Grand Vin is lower in alcohol than the Pavillon Rouge, owing to the selection of the oldest and finest vines. Yields were a very healthy 47hl/ha in 2005, but only 35% of the total production of Château Margaux will make it into the first wine this year. When you consider that, in the 1980’s, yields were normally 60+hl/ha, of which 80% was selected for the Grand Vin, that makes a two-thirds reduction in volumes over a 20-year period, and graphically illustrates where things are going. Those that do manage to bag any of this will be in for a treat in about 15 years’ time: the wine is has a profound and multi-layered nose with big structure and lots of power; on the palate there is great balance, supremely silky, cashmere tannins. With one degree less of alcohol it feels fresher in the mouth, ad is incredibly long, rich and mouth-filling. In a year of balance, this is one of the few wines that has that “wow” factor!
critic reviews
The 2005 Château Margaux is a First Growth that I had not tasted for several years. According to the estate, it finally began to open during the pandemic. I remember this was stellar in its flush of youth, and earned a three-figure score from the Southwold blind tasting way back in 2009. Now at two decades in age, it has a supremely well-defined bouquet with dense blackberry, mulberry, iron filing and dried blood. The palate is still very youthful—as usual, the 2005 is an amazingly backward Margaux. Very well balanced, this has retained that arching structure uncommon in this First Growth vis-à-vis Latour or Mouton Rothschild. The ferrous finish has a very slight medicinal quality, though it is not as mentholé as the Pavillon Rouge. You can see this still has some way to go, but it is finally beginning to reveal what it can do. Tasted at the château.
The 2005 Chateau Margaux is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot. Deep garnet-brick in color, it reveals an earthy nose redolent of crushed rocks, tilled soil, and truffles over a kirsch and creme de cassis core with floral notes coming through. The medium to full-bodied palate is elegant and perfumed, with soft, velvety tannins, finishing long and layered. Perfumed, layered, and approachable now, it is within its ideal drinking window, and will continue to drink well through 2047. In 2003, Corinne Mentzelopoulos bought back the majority stake and became the controlling shareholder of Chateau Margaux. This 2005 was made by Paul Pontallier.