critic reviews
The 1996 Mouton Rothschild was poured from an ex-château magnum. I had perhaps forgotten that this is probably the finest Mouton from that decade. Fragrant on the nose, it offers gorgeous, pure blackberry scents interlaced with cherry liqueur, cassis and tobacco, conveying a sense of controlled opulence. It is just very...Mouton. The palate sprints out of the blocks with wonderful cassis and blackberry notes, an underlying sapidity that comes to the fore after 20-30 minutes. Sapid on the energetic finish, it seems to mellow with time, gaining more and more composure. This is drinking beautifully now and will continue to do so for many years. Tasted at the Académie du Vin dinner in Bordeaux.
The last time I tasted the 1996 Mouton Rothschild (maybe a couple of years ago?), I recall it was a bit broody and closed. This showing was anything but! Deep garnet in color, it sashays out of the glass with lavishly dressed, gregarious creme de cassis, baked blackberries and plum pudding scents plus touches of menthol, fenugreek, star anise and sandalwood with fleeting glimpses at dried rose petals and oolong tea. The full-bodied palate is richly fruited, opulent and oh-so seductive, with bags of youthful black fruit and lovely finely grained tannins, finishing with fantastic freshness and length. This was tasted from jeroboam in September 2019.