Château Mouton Rothschild, 1er Cru Classé, Pauillac,

Juicy, rich, opulent, powerfully seductive, and a wonderful expression of yin and yang with its neighbour Lafite. The toasted oak notes are in full evidence, and the tannins remain muscular, bulky and young - this feels almost entirely in its primary phase, and it needs a good few hours, or longer, in a carafe if you are thinking of drinking any time soon. As it opens, black cherry, mandarin peel and bitter chocolate notes arrive, as does the more restrained charcoal and fresh mint character of Pauillac, set against sweeter crème de cassis notes. This is just glancing towards its drinking window, but will reward longer ageing, and has decades ahead of it. What a brilliant vintage, this is signature Mouton, charming but with serious intent. 100% new oak, Philippe Dhalluin director.

The 2009 Mouton-Rothschild has a very backward bouquet that is clearly nowhere near its drinking plateau, unfolding reluctantly with cedar and pencil box infused black fruit. Glimpses of pressed rose petal unfurl with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a mixture of red and black fruit, and veins of blue. Very harmonious with a satin-like texture towards the persistent finish. Philippe Dhalluin conjured a gorgeous Mouton-Rothschild this year, but it needs another few years in the cellar. Tasted at BI Wines & Spirits' Ten Year On tasting.