A singular site on a singular hill. A walled vineyard of vertiginous steepness. A track-record for profound longevity. A vision for what might be possible in Champagne. A wine to defy logic. An icon. Philipponnat’s great Clos des Goisses is all of these things, which might explain why we get so excited with every new vintage release.
With a habit of performing in vintages when others either can’t or don’t, Clos des Goisses has become something of a beacon for shattering preconceptions about a vintage. Very often this is called out in challenging years where others have struggled for ripeness. But the same goes for warmer seasons, particularly very dry versions, like 2015.
Terroir shines in challenging years. In a year like ‘15, the magnificence of Clos des Goisses, a vineyard that never struggles for ripeness, is doubly impressive. There’s undeniable power and depth to the‘15, but look beyond that and there’s remarkable clarity, control, and crispness, stemming from the underlying chalky element that accompanies the wine right across the palate and through the highly persistent finish. Choosing to harvest late, seeking true balance while avoiding the astringency that is possible in such dry seasons, Charles Philipponnat has crafted a Clos des Goisses that marries high ripeness with high style. The extract, the structure, the chalk notes all serve to bring energy, driving the wine forwards, while flavours of yellow plum, salt and candied bergamot provide beauty and keep you coming back for more. This is a deep, bold, muscular Goisses that never loses sight of its origins; a masterclass in Champagne’s ability to be both great and graceful.
Alongside the blanc we have a glorious rendition of Philipponnat’s scintillating Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé. The clarity of the 2014 vintage provides the perfect backdrop for the addition of some very fine saignée pinot noir, all which hails from Clos des Goisses. The result is a wine of crisp intensity, but also delicacy and levity, whose fruit is crystalline and dazzling. Precision flavours abound in this pitch perfect pink; the purity of fruit on display is remarkable. We recently drank it with a dish of Pigeon and fig and it was one of those combinations that you think about long into your journey home.
Finally, this release brings forth the latest rendition of Philipponnat’s much loved Long Vieillissement (“L.V.”) Clos des Goisses. As a vineyard famous for producing some of Champagne’s longest-lived wines, the L.V. bottlings hero that reputation and offer customers the chance to bypass the ageing process. A late disgorgement that is released 25 years after vintage, these are wines to savour slowly and enjoy right to the very last drop – it will offer plenty more than the very first. Savoury, umami rich flavours of fresh cep and roast chicken skin soon part to reveal myriad citrus notes with that everpresent chalky line below. Clear, persistent, beautifully aged yet still remarkably fresh, this bottle epitomises what we love so much about these L.V. releases. Aged Goisses truly is one of life’s great treats.
We will be shipping all of these releases early in 2025. Please follow the links below for full tasting notes and to place an order.
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