Pierre Rostaing’s Sublime 2023s

A vintage of depth, fluidity and freshness, 2023 was a spectacular year at Domaine Rostaing. The wines stand out for their complexity and tactile, but present tannins, unerring balance and incredible finesse. They have a complete, voluptuous feel that will delight Syrah drinkers – full of class, and an undeniable drinkability. Suppler than the more concentrated 2022s – a wonderful vintage at this address – the 2023s deliver oodles of up front charm, with all the reserve and inner-strength that one wants from a leading light in the appellation.

Run fully by Pierre Rostaing now, the wines are made in the same way as in father, René’s tenure: whole cluster fermented, followed by long, gentle macerations and roughly 18 months ageing in neutral barrels, new oak never exceeding 10%. It’s all about the vineyards here; the Ampodium blend offering a seamless, crackling red-fruited expression of Côte Rôtie; the single vineyards offering variously more mineral, higher-toned, intense demonstrations of Syrah, at its apogee.

Very floral and perfumed, with rose petals, sweet red berries, and spice, the 2023 Côte Rôtie Ampodium is medium-bodied and shows the fresher, pure, elegant style of the vintage. A kiss of new oak shows on the palate and it has a silky, seamless texture. It's always a terrific wine, and it shows the house style as well. If you're trying to understand Rostaing, give this a whirl. – 90-92pts, Jeb Dunnuck

A rocking bouquet of red and blue fruits, smoke, and violets defines the 2023 Côte Rôtie La Landonne, which comes from one of the greatest terroirs for Syrah in the world, the La Landonne lieu-dit situated in the heart of Côte Rôtie. Classic in every way with its rich, layered, yet regal style, it's medium to full-bodied and has a smoking good mid-palate and sweet yet building tannins. It's another magical wine from this estate that readers would love to have in their cellar. – 96-98pts, Jeb Dunnuck

Black and blue fruits, crushed stone, and mineral notes all emerge from 2023 Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde, which comes from a site of slightly more granitic soils located in the middle of the appellation. Medium to full-bodied and very elegant, it has more velvety tannins than La Landonne, with a supple, seamless style that's pure and perfumed, which is what this site always seems to yield. – 94-96pts, Jeb Dunnuck.