Volnay, Clos des Ducs, 1er Cru, 2012

Dark, bright red. Subtly complex scents of black cherry, menthol, toast, mocha and soil are complicated by hints of leather and herbs. Quite dark and powerful on the palate and impressively creamy, thick and sweet. But today this wine is medicinal and bound-up and not yet showing its inherent sweetness as its huge tannins arrive early and cut off the fruit. Happily, there's no bitterness from the hail but this wine is in an awkward stage today, with its tannins dominating. I should note that d'Angerville and régisseur François Duvivier are very high on this wine, but at the moment I see its solidity more than the mineral lift it showed shortly after being bottled. Incidentally, Angerville noted that during the vinifications in 2013 and 2014, he pumped out the juice, cleaned it overnight, then put it back onto the berries, which he said eliminated all the mud created by the hail. He added: I wish we had done this in 2012. (13.5% alcohol; September 22 harvest; 3.68 pH; barely ten hectoliters per hectare were produced due to three hail events in Volnay: two at the end of June within 24 hours, then again in early August; the Clos des Ducs was released entirely in magnums but d'Angerville pulled a 750-ml. bottle from his library)

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date of review 10/2019