Volnay, Clos des Ducs, 1er Cru, 2020

It is staggering how Clos des Ducs just seems to go from strength to strength every year. This is a handsome effort, up there with the very best Guillaume has made. Silky, suave yet deep and brooding. This makes an immediately fine first impression with its fresh, juicy, effortless fruit, yet there is plenty beneath the surface, too – deep, complex red and dark berry flavours, floral top notes and earthier spice characteristics. Substantial, long and intense yet so composed and graceful. It is hard to imagine a better example of what Clos des Ducs can deliver. The 52 "ouvrees" or 2.15 hectares that this great Clos vineyard spans, measure exactly the same as in the early part of the 16th century, its earliest recorded mention. The poor soils and steep, well drained slope of this limestone /marne vineyard tilts towards the south and south-east. The wines typically boast contrasting elegance and structure. Complex and harmonious, they have a great ageing capacity.