Volnay, Clos des Ducs, 1er Cru, 2015

Another wine, like Taillepieds, that seems to have become a jot finer and more accessible in its youth over the last couple of vintages. Clos des Ducs always has a touch of brooding mystery to it, only ever offering a glimpse of what lies beneath. And so it is with the 2015, an awe-inspiring effort. Deep, complex, with cooling earth, stone and mineral components at its core, garlanded by such suave bramble, tayberry and loganberry fruit. There is great force and energy here but nothing sticks out. Sophisticated, stylish and noble. One of the great Clos des Ducs. The 52 ‘ouvrees’ or 2.15 hectares that this great Clos vineyard spans, measure exactly the same as in the early part of the 16th century, its earliest recorded mention. The poor soils and steep, well-drained slope of this limestone/ marne vineyard tilts towards the south and the wines typically boast contrasting elegance and structure. Complex and harmonious, they have a great ageing capacity.