Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, 2020
A more muscular wine than the Clos de Beze, this is a textbook example of how great this structured, powerful Grand Cru can be. Vigorous, bramble and sloe fruit with background notes of earth, cocoa, orange zest and blood orange. Dark, profound and full-bodied yet so finely-etched and with such clarity of flavour. Exemplary. Apart from one tiny parcel of 0.12 ha situated on the Chambolle side of the vineyard, the core of this cuvée comes from two parcels in the Morey commune, one of which is next to Clos de Tart. One part was planted in 1946 another in 1980. This makes Bruno Clair the only producer with Bonnes Mares vines within the Morey St Denis commune. Bruno describes the wine as being three quarters from red soil based vines and one quarter white limestone marne-based soils, resulting in a wine of great intensity and vigour.
critic reviews
The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a little more new oak on the nose, though it is simpatico with the fruit: black cherries, boysenberry and violets. This gains complexity and nuance with aeration. It is absolutely seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, powdery in texture, linear and with a sapid, quite Clos Saint-Denis-like finish. Très. Grand. Cru. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.