Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, 2021
Lifting red fruit and flowers over a fine stoniness. Lovely energy and nerve. The structure feels hewn from rock but the fruit is balanced and elegant with great detail and vitality. A hugely animated Bonnes Mares, a wine of nimble power that will wow those lucky enough to secure a few bottles. Apart from one tiny parcel of 0.12 ha situated on the Chambolle side of the vineyard, the core of this cuvée comes from two parcels in the Morey commune, one of which is next to Clos de Tart. One part was planted in 1946 another in 1980. This makes Bruno Clair the only producer with Bonnes Mares vines within the Morey St Denis commune. Bruno describes the wine as being three quarters from red soil based vines and one quarter white limestone marne-based soils, resulting in a wine of great intensity and vigour.
critic reviews
The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is beguiling on the nose with pure beautifully defined red fruit that soars from the glass. Real sophistication and utterly absorbing. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins very focused and harmonious. Precise, complex, engaging hints of Earl Grey infuse the red fruit on the finish that is so refined. Complete class. Precision, precision, precision. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.
The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has also turned out very well, mingling notes of sweet red berries and cherries with hints of rose petals and orange zest. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, it's pure and precise, with a bright spine of acidity and a more tensile, mineral profile than the richer, fleshier Clos de Beze.