Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, 2023

There’s a complex floral quality to this Bonnes Mares that provides an interesting counterpart to the core of firm fruit. A peony note again, lily, and rose, that provide a sense of sensuality that’s captivating, especially for a Bonnes Mares at this juncture. A truly elongated finish helps to pull the power and stretch the wine. Very fine power here. Perhaps less deep and well-padded than the Beze, but covered in this fine floral fruit character, this strikes us as one of the most compellingly beautiful and sophisticated Bonnes Mares we’ve tasted here. Apart from one tiny parcel of 0.12 ha situated on the Chambolle side of the vineyard, the core of this cuvée comes from two parcels in the Morey commune, one of which is next to Clos de Tart. One part was planted in 1946 another in 1980. This makes Bruno Clair the only producer with Bonnes Mares vines within the Morey St Denis commune. Bruno describes the wine as being three quarters from red soil-based vines and one quarter white limestone marne-based soils, resulting in a wine of great intensity and vigour.