2022
6x75cl
EP
£1,865.00
vintage
En primeur
2022
6x75cl
EP
£1,865.00
Aromatically this is all limestone and crisp red fruits with that racy detailed mineral character that seems to define Bruno’s Bonnes Mares. In a vintage like 2022 this gives a singular sense of freshness to the wine. Across the palate, powerful and firm flavours gather around a core of refined structure, with a wash of briary red fruits that add a sense of caressing, if salty, energy. This is serious. Velvet power and persistent intensity. Apart from one tiny parcel of 0.12 ha situated on the Chambolle side of the vineyard, the core of this cuvée comes from two parcels in the Morey commune, one of which is next to Clos de Tart. One part was planted in 1946 another in 1980. This makes Bruno Clair the only producer with Bonnes Mares vines within the Morey St Denis commune. Bruno describes the wine as being three quarters from red soil based vines and one quarter white limestone marne-based soils, resulting in a wine of great intensity and vigour.
Bruno Clair started his own domaine in 1979 with small holdings in Marsannay, Fixin, Morey and Savigny Dominode. Alongside this sat his family's Clair-Dau estate, one of the great Burgundian domaines, however following the death of his grandfather Joseph Clair family disaggreements sadly lead to its dismantling in 1985. The following year, to add to his own small domaine, Bruno was entrusted with the vineyards of his parents, brothers and sisters which included those of Clos de Bèze, Cazetiers, Clos St-Jacques, Vosne-Romanée, Clos du Fonteny and Chambolle-Musigny. Bruno Clair’s wings are spread widely over the Côte d’Or covering nine appellations in total.
Bruno, first and foremost, is a vigneron adopting an approach that involves back-breaking vineyard work and minimal intervention winemaking, using a mixture of large old wooden foudres and smaller barriques for the long slow ageing process. New oak, though used, is kept relatively low - rarely going above 40% even for the Grands Crus. Edouard and Arthur Clair, Bruno's sons, are an exciting, committed new generation gradually taking over, gently introducing a few enhancements such as increased whole bunch percentages and less sulphur usage. There is no doubt that Bruno Clair have upped their game over the last ten years and have well and truly broken into the top league of estates in the Côte de Nuits.
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