Follin Arbelet

Since Frank Follin inherited vines originally under the control of the Louis Latour empire, he has been making sublime wines of concentration, purity and complexity. All of his vines from Aloxe-Corton, Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses and Romanée St Vivant are tended by hand and respectfully protected from any form of insecticide or pesticide, each betraying individuality, polish and great purity. By large the wines are de-stalked here but fermentations sometimes include up to 20% whole berry ferment depending on the vintage or cuvée, resulting in wines of suave, velvet textures. His cellars are cool and deep, so this process and the elevage are long, slow and gentle with minimal intervention, new oak percentages being kept to below 40%.

2017 Vintage

"It's a morale boosting vintage" says Franck Follin of 2017. "The wines started off very supple but they have gained in structure and tension in barrel." Pickers began harvesting a healthy-sized and great quality crop on the 2nd September. Grapes averaged between a very balanced 12.5 to 13.5% of potential alcohol. Franck has gently shaped these into wines of sheer brilliance. They display wonderful equilibrium, offering character, depth of flavour and brightness. The tannic textures are so silky and fine. Some of the most sensual and deep wines the Cote de Beaune has to offer.

2018 Vintage

There was not a rotten berry in sight when harvest began on the 29th August, “a beautifully healthy vintage” according to Frank. Grapes were ripe, though not excessive, and alcohol degrees ranged from 13.5 to 14.2. He also noted that after malolactic fermentation, racking and some further élévage the wines shrugged off their initial “solaire” fruit and ended up becoming much more “classic” and “Burgundian.” Although these wines have the velvety weight and density of a ripe and warm vintage, they display extraordinarily pristine, brilliant fruit profiles. You can really taste the purity and cleanliness of the berries in the final wines. A very consistent and highly impressive vintage at this estate. One of the top successes of the vintage.

2019 Vintage

Simon Follin explained that there were some fears of frost in 2019, as there were in 2017 and 2016, but thanks to “a few early mornings” they avoided any damage. The only bad point of the vintage Simon noted was the flowering, where some crop was lost. The rest of the season went smoothly; there was no lack of water and the vines did not seem to suffer. Not ones for superstition, the Follins commenced the vintage on Friday 13th September in Corton Charlemagne, the reds following the next day, and lasting six days in total. Simon considers 2019 “an outstanding vintage. It was a hot vintage but the surprising thing is that when you drink the wines you cannot feel the hot aspects of the vintage. There is a fantastic balance between acidity and freshness, it’s very surprising. Stylistically, these are very classical wines from Burgundy, that’s what I like about it. Right at the beginning you could feel a fantastic harmony, it is still there and it will be there for a long time.” A vintage of rare balance, that straddles a fine line between classical elegance and power.

2020 Vintage

“Un millésime extraordinaire!” Frank Follin intoned. “We started harvesting on 21st August, the earliest ever and brought in a wonderful, though small, crop. The berries were tiny”. Once in the cellar the Follins de-stemmed everything as normal, shortened their macerations and pressed a little earlier than usual to prevent extracting too much. These are lovely wines; traditionally made yet elegant examples of Aloxe-Corton as well as three entirely regal Grand Crus. Sadly, yields for many of the wines, including a magnificent Romanee St Vivant were pretty miniscule – the latter yielding just a barrel and a half as opposed to a more normal five.

2021 Vintage

Frank Follin’s deep cold cellars (mind your head on the way down) are home to a range of wines that offer up a sense of traditional charm and permanence. There’s nothing soft about these, which is not to say they don’t have fine structures, but there’s a real heart to Follin-Arbelet wines, delivered in a transparent, truly Pinot way. All the wines are destemmed and the ensuing élevage is slow and measured with minimal racking and very little new oak intrusion. The 2021s here are brimming with life and so much finer than your average Aloxe-Cortons – they’ll provide huge enjoyment in years to come. “We actually had a lovely end to the season and had no problem harvesting ripe grapes” Frank told us. These are authentic Burgundies , honest yet fine, and all the better for it.

2022 Vintage

“Tonic and dynamic is how I think of these 2022s” Frank Follin mused in his deep Aloxe cellars, while pouring a genuinely elegant range; wines that run entirely counter to Aloxe’s reputation for rusticity. “The big difference between this vintage and 2020 is the downpour we had at the beginning of July, 70mm, which allowed the vines to ripen easily without becoming excessively concentrated. We were expecting more concentration, but the harvest wasn’t actually that hot. As a result the wines feel juicy. As throughout their élevage, they’ve just become fresher and more precise.” Raised in deep cellars these are habitually some of the more backward wines we taste from barrel, yet in 2022, they’re as open and charming as you could possibly hope for, full of bright tonic energy and dynamism, just like Frank suggests. The Aloxe villages seemed exceptionally noteworthy this year, offering outstanding quality for the price.