This minute 1.2 hectare vineyard in the heart of Margaux is always one of the most thrilling Margaux we taste. From 80 year old vines, Luc Thienpont and Jacques Boissenot have produced yet another magical Clos des Quatre Vents. If anything the 2009 is the best vintage yet. Wonderfully fragrant with notes of blackcurrant fruit pastels, freshly cut herbs, slate and violets. True to its terroir and very Margaux in style, this is packed with delicious berry flavours, summer fruits, wild strawberries as well as cassis and gravelly minerality. Although very feminine, this is impressively endowed Margaux, but with impeccable balance and delicious, racy acidity. A really complex, complete, perfumed wine with beautifully grainy tannins.
In 1999 Luc Thienpont bought an exceptional 2 ha plot situated next to Deyrem Valentin in Margaux. A large percentage of the vineyards are planted with 80 year old ungrafted Cabernet Sauvignon vines producing a vastly concentrated wine that Luc ages in 100% Seguin Moreau oak. Only half of his purchase is considered by Luc to be good enough for the ‘Grand Vin’. Complex and silky, the wines show remarkable balance, length and charm.
The wines tend to show more perfume and roundness than neighbour St-Julien, Pauillac, and St-Estèphe, whilst retaining a certain structure and concentration. Margaux is the most southerly and most extensive of the famous Médoc communes, a patchwork of vineyards with lesser parcels classed purely as Haut-Médoc. A myriad of soil mixtures can be found, clay, limestone, and gravel. Though quality is not always consistent here, the potential is great as more Margaux properties were included in the 1855 classification of the Médoc and Graves than any other appellation.
The two leading lights are the highly sought after Châteaux Margaux and Palmer, though there are several other solid performers including Brane-Cantenac, Rauzan-Ségla, Durfort-Vivens, Lascombes, Giscours, Ferrières, Malescot St Exupery and Luc Thienpont’s new boutique vineyard, Clos des Quatre Vents.