Bordeaux 2024: The Haut Brion Stable

These legendary terroirs have produced a glorious range of focused, energetic, lithe wines, brimming with noble, aromatic fruit, cosseted by resplendent tannins. Even Mission’s second wine, La Chapelle is exquisite – one of the few very impressive second wines we tasted. As for the Grand Vins, it’s as if Mission and Haut-Brion have exchanged dispositions. The normally demonstrative Mission is surprisingly reserved and serious, whilst the usually shy Haut-Brion is remarkably expressive. Both are magnificent. And what’s more, both are released at the best prices in a decade.

“The 2024 Haut-Brion, which contains more Cabernet Franc this year from a high-performing vat, has an altogether more polished, powerful and fruit-driven bouquet than La Mission at the moment. Black and blue fruit, black olive and subtle sea spray scents emerge with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, vibrant and focused, with fine tannins and an engaging underlying sapidity coming through with more weight and sustain on the finish. This is a very capable Haut-Brion that will not kowtow to the challenges of the 2024 season—rather, it seems to relish them. 2030 – 2055.” 93-95/100 – Neal Martin, vinous.com

“The 2024 La Mission Haut-Brion has a beautifully defined bouquet with pure, mineral-led black fruit, hints of blueberry and a subtle sea spray influence. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chalky tannins. Fresh and vibrant, this La Mission feels very cohesive and sophisticated. No, there is not the depth and persistence of a top-drawer vintage, but its noticeable complexity is a cut above. 2031 - 2050.”** 93-95/100 – Neal Martin, vinous.com**

If anything, the whites are even more impressive. They’ve been hailed by critics as the wines of the vintage. Produced in tiny quantities, these are real collectors’ pieces, abounding with vibrant aromas of flowers, white fruits and minerals. As ever, these are complex, tantalizing, electric wines.

“The 2024 Haut-Brion Blanc also has a reserved bouquet like the La Mission Blanc and demands more encouragement than usual. Eventually, there are lime, gooseberry, crushed stone and mirabelle scents that start to gain intensity after ten minutes. The palate is very well balanced with a slightly more pithy texture. It is quite peppery, with fine grip and hints of green olive toward the persistent finish. This is excellent.” 95-97/100 – Neal Martin, vinous.com

“The 2024 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, which has more Sémillon in the blend, was reticent on the nose and demanded more coaxing than usual, (reluctantly) offering scents of red apple, lime flower and crushed stone. The palate is more expressive with impressive weight and density. The 2024 is fresh and vibrant with palpable tension, revealing a tingle of lemongrass and stem ginger towards its sustained finish. When I returned to my glass after 20 minutes, the aromatics had burst open and shown their true colours, with hints of chai and popcorn and wonderful mineralité. This might turn out to be one of the best white La Missions in recent years.” 96-98/100 – Neal Martin, vinous.com