critic reviews
The 2020 Mouton-Rothschild has a delineated and intense bouquet, slightly more tertiary than its peers, with graphite and cedar notes developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. Silky smooth in texture, it's a very polished 2022, fanning out gloriously toward the finish. To put it prosaically, this is a very delicious First Growth with a very sustained aftertaste and the sapidity to tempt you back for more. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.
The 2020 Mouton Rothschild is a striking wine and one that I regretted not purchasing en primeur as soon as it landed in my glass. Offering up complex aromas of minty cassis, pencil shavings, loamy soil, cigar wrapper, espresso roast and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and layered, with terrific concentrated, beautifully refined tannins and a long, penetrating finish. Checking in at 12.8% alcohol, its incipient complexity, ineffable sense of completeness and exquisite balance mark it out as the purists' choice among the trio of 2018, 2019 and 2020. In this vintage, the lots that made it into the blend were largely confined to the core gravel terroirs that represent Mouton's heart, meaning that there's a little less to go around. This was the first vintage overseen by Mouton's new technical director, Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, and he has begun with a flying start.
Composed of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2020 Mouton Rothschild is deep garnet-purple in color. It needs considerable coaxing to unlock notes of crushed blackcurrants, fresh blackberries, spiced plums, and raspberry coulis, leading to wafts of clove oil, sandalwood, and mossy tree bark. The medium-bodied palate has compelling poise, with silken tannins and seamless freshness to frame the delicate red and black fruit layers, finishing long and minerally. This is a wonderfully graceful expression of Mouton.
This delivers the expected glamour of Petit Mouton, although more reserved than in vintages such as 2015 or 2018. It retains a silk and satin touch to the tannins, and a ton of black cherry puree, spiced cocoa bean, coffee, liqourice root and campfire smoke. Deep, rich and enticing, the tannins are ripe but they have intent - this is a Petit Mouton to age. Think 8 to 10 years minimum. 50% new oak. Harvest September 7 to 24.
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