Château Latour, 1er Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2005

The 2005 Latour is made from 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-brick in color, it gallops out of the glass with incredibly youthful, powerful creme de cassis, blackberry pie, and plum preserves scents, followed by wafts of violets, licorice, eucalyptus, and fertile loam. Medium to full-bodied, super-concentrated, and energetic in the mouth, it has a rock-solid structure of firm, beautifully ripe tannins and so many layers, finishing on a long, lingering anise note. While it is beautifully open and expressive at the moment, it remains incredibly primary and therefore could be a disappointment for those seeking a more evolved, tertiary experience. I would give it another 5-7 years in bottle, at least, knowing this will likely cellar to 2070 and beyond.

Expectations are high when you open a top flight estate in one of Bordeaux’s most revered vintages, and the 2005 Latour, while still being stubborn, is poised to deliver the goods. So many layers to get through, and it moves in distinct stages, from sweet-salty dark chocolate and soy sauce through to earthy cassis and blackberries, finishing up with a delicate burst of rosebuds and violet flowers, and a saline, slate and mint kick on the finish. The flavours remain hidden at first and need coaxing - there is definitely no rush to open, and it may still be going through something of a dumb phase, but I have been lucky enough to taste this wine a few times this year, and this week’s example was one of the best, really beginning to grow into its potential, and showing plenty of old school Latour power. There are fireworks but you have to wait for them, and ideally I would still give it another few years. 100% new oak. This wine has been released En Primeur, then again in March 2017, and this is the third and final release. Harvest between September 26 and October 6. Decanted three hours before tasting, and it needs another few hours to fully open.