At the end of August last year, I was stood in the Rheinhessen, engaged in polite conversation, all the while conscious of the rising, prickling sunburn on my skin. 2022 had been hot and dry from the off. From May through to the end of August, records had tumbled as Germany sweltered in the hottest year on record.
All the producers on our trip spoke of heat stress, particularly for the young vines. Katharina Prüm believes that green harvests through the season were essential. Not to increase the concentration of the fruit – but “to relax the plants, not just for this year but for the long term.” Oliver Haag concurred and said that almost five thousand of his vines perished. He had planted them in 2021. A one year old vine cannot withstand such conditions. By the end of August, most producers were expecting an opulent vintage, along the lines of 2018, but with less concentration. For producers of predominantly fruity wines, the hope was that if temperatures dropped and it stayed dry, then they’d potentially have a shot at late harvest, noble sweets.
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