critic reviews
The 2005 Haut-Brion has a more sophisticated and delineated bouquet than the 2005 La Mission Haut-Brion with layer upon layer of pure black fruit commingling with crushed stone, Montecristo cigar and light black olive scents. It becomes more floral as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly powdery texture and a peppery, liquorice-tinged finish. That it feels more savoury compared to previous bottles is a sign of its evolution. This needs more time but is a fabulous First Growth, albeit one eclipsed by subsequent vintage where I feel that Jean-Philippe Delmas foraged more finesse and precision. Tasted at the château.
Tasting this just after the Haut-Brion 1998 and it feels almost impossibly young, but as with every time I have tasted this wine, you just know that it has the balance, depth, structure and sense of joy that will carry it through the decades. Exceptional quality, plush and fragrant, incense, blackberry and pencil lead. Jean-Philippe Delmas estate director as of 2003, Jean-Philippe Masclef technical director, no outside consultant. 100% new oak. I have given this 100 points every other time I've tasted it recently, but this tiny one point downscore is simply to point out that it is still a baby when sat in a lineup of older Haut-Brions!
Amazingly young at 17 years old, barely at the stage of stretching its limbs, but everything is here and in place, crouched and ready. Rich in flavour, luscious black fruits that are full of life, this is an exceptional Haut-Brion, performing beautifully in a year where everything went right, but nothing was in excess. You get the full complexity of this site, with a myraid of dark fruits, plump berries, liqourice, pencil lead, mandarin peel and cocoa, you can comfortably cellar this for another few decades, but if you must open now, give it 6-8 hours in a carafe. Jean-Phillip Delmas winemaker, two years into his tenure at the time after taking over from his father Jean-Bernard Delmas in 2003. 100% new oak.