
Château Troplong Mondot, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion, 2022
Some critics have already nailed their colours to the mast when it comes to Troplong `22. Whilst we really admire what Aymeric de Gironde has done here along with super-consultant-oenologist, Thomas Duclos, we're not quite so effusive. Considering the terroir (and past perceptions of Troplong), this is a massive improvement - it is genuinely vibrant and fresh, something you would never say about the wines from the old regime, but it's not and probably never will be the ethereal style of St Emilion we hanker. Aymeric describes this as a
critic reviews
This is 85% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc, and the élevage was in 55% new oak, the rest divided between 20-hectolitre foudre s and second-fill barrels, the aim being to move to only new oak barrels and foudre s. The nose is pure, focused and beautifully expressive, with fresh blackberry, black violets, rosehips, acacia flowers and black pepper. Truly juicy and captivating on the palate, with dark currant and blackberry fruits, with a sinewy and liquorice-laced frame, dark and draped over a frame of ripe tannins. This is beautifully textured but also vigorous and filled with energy and vigour, with driven acidity as well as a frame of highly polished tannins. Intense, driven and long in the finish, which is complex and filled with black fruits, crushed limestone and pepper. A simply stunning Troplong-Mondot, which has a little bit of everything, all working in harmony, just a touch of cherry liqueur which perhaps reflects the degree of maturity here. All the same, this is surely the best Troplong-Mondot Aymeric has made. The alcohol on the label will, I am told, will be 15%, as with the second wine.
Smooth, stately, rich, powerful, this is just full of delight, rose petals, orange peel, orange flower water, cocoa bean, flint, graphite, fennel, chalk, harnessing the complexity of these 360-degree-orientated soils. Get the precision and the skilful winemaking coming through in the glass. Clearly needs time to age, full of architectural prowess. A brilliant reminder that terroir in certain spots in undeniable, and makes itself felt even with all of the changes put in by the new owners since 2017. Thomas Duclos. A touch of whole bunch fermentation, no fining, low filtration. 55% new oak, 25% oak casks, 25% of one year, 1st year with wax closure for Troplong first wine. Remi Monribot cellar master, Aymeric de Gironde director
The 2022 Troplong-Mondot was picked from 29 August when it was 31° Celsius, which according to estate director Aymeric de Gironde, felt cool compared to the rest of summer. The alcohol is 14.9% with the pH of 3.48. It sees no SO2 until it is transferred into barrel. The nose is very attractive and certainly very expressive of its limestone terroir: blackberry, briary, crushed iris petal and light marine scents. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit, quite chalky in texture, that acidic spine governing its overall mouthfeel. Sapid on the finish, this Troplong Mondot builds in the mouth and coats it on the finish. De Gironde and I discussed my previous scores. I always said that he would get better and better during his tenure and this is clearly the case in 2022, the best Troplong Mondot...so far.
A wine that transcended both my lofty expectations and anything produced at this address in the last 50 years, the 2022 Troplong Mondot realizes all the potential of this striking terroir. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries, exotic spices, bay leaf and orange zest, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with incredible concentration without weight, supple tannins and a seamless, complete profile, concluding with a long, saline finish. All the work of the last few years in the vineyards and winery makes itself felt, as Troplong Mondot's vineyards took the hot, dry conditions in their stride, and the quality of the fruit that they produced has been preserved by a gentle vinification and a discreet elevage, featuring only 55% new oak and some 20% of the volume in large foudres.
product details
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