It’s been another busy day on the Place de Bordeaux. Straight out of the blocks came a firm favourite for the wine of the vintage, Château Ausone. A photo finish couldn’t separate this from Lafleur. Alas, yields are miniscule, so the allocation process will be more complicated than ever…
“A blend of 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot, the 2021 Ausone is a strong candidate for the title of wine of the vintage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of wild blueberries and raspberries mingled with rose petals, violets, exotic spices, vine smoke and blood orange, it's full-bodied, seamless and sensual, with a satiny attack that segues into a deep, layered mid-palate of breathtaking precision and intensity without weight. Built around bright acids and ultra-refined tannins and concluding with a resonant, perfumed finish, this profound young Ausone represents the essence of this great limestone terroir. I am not in the habit of drinking six-month-old Bordeaux cask samples, but this is one wine that would have sorely tempted me to make an exception to that rule if my appointment at the estate hadn't been one of the first of the day! 97-100/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Another unicorn soon followed, Pichon Comtesse. Nicolas Glumineau made some drastic selections, which resulted in 70% less wine. It’s another stunning Pichon, we just hope there’s enough to go around…
“This estate is one of the most dynamic in contemporary Bordeaux, so it's no surprise that the 2021 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a terrific wine—though its a very atypical blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot, cropped at a derisory 15 hectoliters per hectare, hints at what a challenging year this was in the vineyards. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of wild berries, blackcurrants, iris, licorice, black truffles, cigar wrapper and sweet soil tones, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with beautifully refined tannins, lively acids and a supple but serious profile. It will see 60% new oak and, in all likelihood, a classical élevage of fully 18 months. 94-95+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Meanwhile Beychevelle has assembled an extremely accomplished winemaking and commercial team. Erwan Le Brozec, formally of Mouton Rothschild, presented their 2020 and 2021 side by side; both were superb. It’s hard to think of a chateau which has improved more in the last decade. The brand remains as popular as ever and the wines are worthy of the acclaim.
“The 2021 Beychevelle is a strong effort, exhibiting aromas of sweet berries and plums mingled with cigar wrapper and fresh mint. Medium to full-bodied, bright and fine-boned, it's deep and layered, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a saline finish. This wine only improved over the five times I tasted it. 91-94/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Our next pair are highly rated by the J&B team and have consistently triumphed at the Southwold blind tastings. Léoville Poyferré is a somewhat understated brand, but where it counts – in the glass – it surpasses the more notable labels with regularity. They continue their excellent form with a striking 2021 – it stakes a strong claim to the St Julien throne. Further south in Margaux, we have the quite brilliant Brane Cantenac. We were extremely impressed by the leading quartet from this appellation. Brane has a texture that is is quite uncommon for the vintage. Henri Lurton and his team have crafted an exceptionally fragrant and charming wine, with lots of presence and persistence. If it wasn’t already considered a “super second”, surely it must be now; a truly great wine.
“The 2021 Léoville Poyferré shows considerable promise, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet berries and plums mingled with spices, licorice and petals, framed by a deft touch of creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, it's a polished, charming wine with a pretty core of fruit, lively acids and ripe, powdery tannins, concluding with a penetrating finish. It's a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot.93-94+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The 2021 Brane-Cantenac shows considerable promise, exhibiting a deep bouquet of wild berries, cassis, spices and violets, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and impressively concentrated palate that's framed by powdery tannins, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish. This seamless and enveloping wine is a blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and the balance Carmenère and Petit Verdot. Once again, it's derived from the château's best holdings on the plateau of Brane and is maturing in entirely new barrels. 93-95/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate