En Primeur
Bordeaux 2021

Year after year we enthuse about the flagship Moueix wines, La Fleur Petrus and Belair Monange. Yet again, they rank amongst the best wines of their respective appellations. In particular, Belair Monange really shines in 2021. The old vineyards of Belair and Magdelaine occupy some of the finest terroir on the Côte of St Emilion, and under the gaze of the meticulous Moueix family are realising their promise. There’s an intensity and class here that speaks of the finest limestone soils. Layers of ravishing, aromatic fruit unfurl on the palate – it is clearly one of the standout wines of the vintage. As ever, La Fleur Petrus is a glorious and powerful example with a long and distinguished future ahead. If you’re not already a fan of these labels, we recommend seeking them out and adding them to your cellars.

Belair Monange

“Made from 99% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, the 2021 Belair-Monange is medium to deep garnet-purple colored. It slowly unfurls to reveal perfumed waves of black cherries, raspberry coulis, lilacs, and jasmine tea, followed by hints of forest floor, powdered cinnamon, and star anise. The medium-bodied palate is so evocative, with impactfully intense and yet wonderfully restrained red and black fruit layers, supported by miraculously velvety tannins, leading to a long and so very fragrant finish. Just stunning! 2027-2047. 94-96/100” – Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent

La Fleur Petrus

“Subdued on the first nose, this is well constructed, and takes its time to unroll. Violet and gunsmoke emerge first, followed by tons of blackberry and redcurrant fruit, cocoa bean, smoked liquorice, earth and black truffles. Successful, gorgeous silky texture, less exuberant than the past few years but nuanced, seductive, overperforms the vintage and is extremely easy to recommend. One to look out for. September 23 to October 6 harvest. 95/100” – Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com

Vieux Château Certan is once again one of the must buy wines of the vintage. Over the past decade, VCC has consistently ranked amongst our, and many critics’ choices for best in show. Unsurprisingly, Alexandre and Guillaume have achieved the same honour with their 2021. Described by Neal Martin as “pure class” and a “spectacular tour de force” by Antonio Galloni, we were equally enthused. This is a perfect marriage of Merlot texture and Cabernet aromas. The ensemble is spectacular, a wine that builds and flourishes gradually, revealing layers of flavours, enticing the senses and gripping one’s attention. As Mr Galloni asserts, anyone who “can find the 2021 should not hesitate, as it is truly magical.” As ever with VCC, we expect demand to outstrip supply, so please contact your account manager if you would like to submit for an allocation.

“The 2021 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 24 to October 6 at 38hL/ha and registers 13.2% alcohol. It is a VCC defined by its Cabernets; Guillaume Thienpont told me ]they used all they had. "I would have blended more if we had more vines," he quipped. The nose unfurls with air to reveal graphite-infused black fruit, touches of undergrowth and tobacco – quintessential VCC aromatics. The palate is beautifully balanced with exquisite definition, not powerful and certainly not opulent, yet built around finesse, precision and charm. It seems to grow in stature in the glass. Pure class. 95-97/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

"The 2021 Vieux Château Certan is a spectacular tour de force from Alexandre and Guillaume Thienpont. What a wine. Vibrant and magnificent in its precision, the 2021 races across the palate, revealing seemingly endless layers of nuance over time. Dark blue/purplish fruit, cinnamon, new leather, graphite, lavendar and crushed rocks all build effortlessly. The Cabernets are dialed up in 2021 and that comes through in the wine's flavour profile and overall feel. The purity of the flavours is just mind-bending. Harvest took place between September 25 and October 4. The blend is 67% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Readers who can find the 2021 should not hesitate, as it is truly magical. 96-98/100" - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com

It’s customary to save the best ‘til last, so as the campaign nears its end, we are delighted to offer two of the most illustrious and highest scoring wines of the right bank: Figeac and La Conseillante.

The 2021 was the first wine to be produced in Figeac’s spectacular new cellar and Frédéric Faye has pulled out all the stops to ensure a stunning debut. This was certainly one of the highlights of our tastings, a wine of real gravitas and complexity, which follows in the footsteps of their 2016, 2019 and 2020. It is a superb effort that collectors won’t want to miss.

“The 2021 Figeac was picked from September 21 until October 19 and matured, as usual, in 100% new oak. It has a very pure, elegant bouquet, the Cabernet Sauvignon imparting subtle pencil lead notes, blackberry and briar, almost understated at first but gaining vigor with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and just the right amount of sapidity. There is unerring symmetry about this Figeac, which is extremely focused yet unconcerned about showing off. There is lovely piquancy on the finish. Unequivocally one the finest Right Bank wines in 2021. Frédéric Faye continues to guide Figeac to the pinnacle of the appellation. (13.0% alcohol) 95-97/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

“One of the highlights of the vintage on the Right Bank, the 2021 Figeac is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Cabernet Franc and 29% Merlot, and the fruit of a harvest that lasted a full month, from September 21 to October 19, with each parcel picked at optimal maturity. Offering up aromas of blackberries, cassis, rose petals, violets, cigar wrapper and sweet soil tones, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless, its velvety attack segueing into a deep, layered core of beautifully vibrant fruit, concluding with a long, saline finish. The first vintage vinified in Figeac's new winery, it's a resounding success for administrator Frédéric Faye and his team. 94-97/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

La Conseillante is celebrating its 150th anniversary with a special, commemorative bottle and case. Since Marielle Cazaux’s arrival in Pomerol, Conseillante has achieved new levels of sophistication and charm. William Kelley describes the 2021 as “a superb effort that transcends the challenges of the vintage”.

“The 2021 La Conseillante was picked the latest in memory, from September 28 until October 8, at 39hL/ha, and matured in 70% new oak. It comes in at 13.3% alcohol and a pH of 3.6. The beautifully defined bouquet offers blackberry, bilberry and light iris petal scents, just a suggestion of black truffle coming though with time. The harmonious palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and lightly spiced red fruit. There is a very subtle ferrous note, lovely depth and grip on the finish, and a persistent aftertaste. A beautiful La Conseillante courtesy of winemaker Marielle Cazaux and her team. 95-97/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

“A superb effort that transcends the challenges of the vintage, the 2021 La Conseillante offers up a beautifully perfumed nose of wild berries, raspberry coulis, violets, exotic spices and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it's a sensual, seamless wine that's deep and layered, structured around supple tannins and lively acids. Perfumed and penetrating, the 2021 isn't the most powerful wine this estate has produced, but it brilliantly exemplifies the rare structural elegance and almost Burgundian aromatic range that so often set this great estate apart from the rest of the Pomerol appellation. It's a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. 95-96/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

The Clarence Dillon stable is released this morning and it is a magnificent range of wines. The team were split as to which of the grand vins they preferred. Some fell for the brooding power and gravitas of Haut Brion while others (and the split was near 50:50) delighted in the floral accented Cabernet perfume of La Mission. William Kelley is in the Haut Brion camp, highlighting it as a potential wine of the vintage. In our view either could be contenders for the crown.

Beyond the lofty heights of the headline acts the second wines also demand attention. In fact, from a potentially best ever Clarté, through to two of the best second wines we tasted in Chapelle and Clarence, we felt that alongside the Guinaudeau stable, this might well be the strongest overall set of wines we tasted. There’s not a hair out of place in these ultra-refined Pessacs.

The two top whites, in a vintage increasingly being recognised as a classic for Sauvignon Sémillon blends, are as intense and multi-dimensional as they are rarefied. Sadly, the tiny quantities produced will have to be strictly allocated.

Château Haut Brion, 1er Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan

“A candidate for the title of wine of the vintage, the 2021 Haut-Brion unwinds in the glass with aromas of rich red and black fruit mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, licorice, black truffles, loamy soil and burning embers. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's elegant and multidimensional, with superb depth at the core, lively acids and ultra-refined tannins. Combining the classical proportions of the vintages of two decades ago with the viticultural and winemaking of today, it's a timeless classic in the making, but it's difficult to find an obvious analogy with an older vintage. When pressed, Jean-Philippe Delmas suggests a superior version of the 2014 vintage, and to me, a more concentrated, serious version of the 2012 vintage also comes to mind. What is clear, however, is that this is one of the real high points of 2021. The blend is 50% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Cabernet Franc, and it attained 13.8% alcohol—a percentage point or so lower than in 2020 or 2019. 96-98/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Château La Mission Haut Brion, Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan

“Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries and plums mingled with loamy soil, sweet spices, cigar box and licorice, the 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion is full-bodied, lively and seamless, with a deep, concentrated core of fruit framed by bright acids and supple, powdery tannins. This charming, sensual rendition of La Mission is a blend of 48% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc, attaining 13.4% alcohol. 94-96/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Château Haut Brion Blanc, Pessac Léognan

“The 2021 Haut-Brion Blanc has a wonderful bouquet of white peach, yellow plum, kumquat and white flower scents that opens beautifully in the glass, displaying lovely definition. The palate is very well balanced with a killer line of acidity that perfectly counterbalances the intense citrus fruit. Razor-sharp, more than any vintage that I have tasted in recent years. I often think that this is overrated at primeur, but the 2021 is undeniably a showstopping Haut-Brion Blanc. 96-98/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

Château La Mission Haut Brion Blanc, Pessac Léognan

“The 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc has a much more nuanced bouquet than the Haut-Brion Blanc this year with scents of Japanese yuzu, crushed stone, apple blossom and a touch of elderflower. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity, taut and fresh, vibrant and focused. This is more linear than the Haut-Brion and stricter, yet the precision on the finish is a wonder to behold. Fabulous. 95-97/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

Bruno Borie takes top billing today with his marvellous 2021 Ducru Beaucaillou. Despite a prolonged tasting at the end of an arduous day, Ducru still managed to thrill. As uncompromising as ever, the selection was brutal, resulting in 40% less wine on the market. Dark and brooding, this is a Cabernet masterclass, packed with cassis and graphite notes. There’s something reminiscent of the 1996 and 2000 vintages, but with a more refined tannic profile. It should evolve into a ravishing Ducru.

“The 2021 Ducru-Beaucaillou was picked at around 24hL/ha and matured in 100% new oak for 18 months, as is customary. It takes time to unfold in the glass, revealing intense blackberry, raspberry, iris flowers and a touch of spice. Very precise, though as expected, more understated than previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with a sappy, saline entry and good grip. Classic in style, fanning out toward the finish, and briny on the aftertaste. This is a fascinating, almost old-school Ducru-Beaucaillou. 94-96/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

Guillaume Pouthier’s joked that his 2021 Les Carmes Haut Brion is 40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 100% pleasure. It’s certainly a magnificent example of one of Bordeaux’s most individual wines. Guillaume used 45% whole bunch fermentations that reduces the alcohol content and adds a sapidity. He also decided to use slightly less new oak than last year (70% new barrels) 20% 18hl foudres and 10% amphorae. The result is superb: silky, refined, vibrant. We loved the style and energy here. Those lucky enough to secure a case will be delighted.

“A brilliant and intensely individual wine, the 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion shows immense potential. Wafting from the glass with aromas of rich berries and plums mingled with notions of raw cocoa, loamy soil, rose petals, burnt sage and vine smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, vibrant and seamless, with a deep, dynamic core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish. Transcending the limitations of the vintage, it wouldn't surprise me were this wine ultimately to surpass the 2019 and 2020 in quality. It's a blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot that's maturing in 70% new oak and the rest in 15-hectoliter foudres. Tasted twice. 94-97/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Also from the city limits, we have Bernard Magrez’s flagship Pape Clement. This superb terroir is capable of producing great wines. We loved the 2020 and the 2021 appears to follow this trend towards finesse. This may in part be due to a changing of the guard as Julien Vilaud succeeds his mentor, Michel Rolland. The 2021 is a brighter, more refined, less extracted style. We can also offer small quantities of the excellent Pape Clement Blanc.

“The 2021 Pape Clément Blanc shows the tension and cut that this vintage could bring to dry white Bordeaux. Exhibiting aromas of gooseberries, nectarine, confit citrus and pastry cream, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy but incisive, with a textural attack and a bright, saline finish. It's a blend of 72% Sauvignon Blanc, only 22% Sémillon, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 1% Muscadelle. 93-94/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Over on the Right Bank, we have two famous, but diminutive properties. Beausejour Duffau is enjoying a renaissance under the proprietorship of Joséphine Duffau-Lagarrosse. Her vision, talent and enthusiasm point towards a bright future. The 2021 was a real revelation and ranks amongst our top wines of the appellation. From the plateau of Pomerol, we have minute quantities of Clinet. It’s fair to say, we’re not big fans of this Château, but critics and collectors enthuse about its singular wines.

“The 2021 Beauséjour (Duffau Lagarrosse) shows considerable promise. Bursting with aromas of inky berry fruit and plums mingled with notions of violets, rose petals and burning embers, the wine is medium to full-bodied, layered and sensual, with a rich core of fruit, lively acids and beautifully refined tannins, concluding with a long, mineral finish. The first vintage made by Joséphine Duffau Lagarrosse since she took back control of the family estate, the 2021 is a blend of 73% Merlot and 27% Cabernet Franc—the highest percentage of Cabernet since the early 2000s (when some Cabernet Sauvignon was included in the blend too). 93-95+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“At 75% Merlot and fully 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2021 Clinet contains the highest proportion of Cabernet in the blend (excepting the 2003) since at least the 1980s. Ronan Laborde harvested late, picking into mid-October, to craft a medium to full-bodied, deep and impressively seamless wine evocative of dark berries, baking chocolate, violets and spices. Concentrated and nicely integrated, it is one of the vintage's notable successes. 93-95/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Château Margaux is evidently one of the stars of the vintage. What’s not to love about this wine? It has it all, glorious fragrant aromas, layers of sumptuous, crystal-clear fruit and a long, mouth-watering finish. This is a hugely impressive wine. Aurélien explained that the IPT is on a par with the 2019, so despite the appearance of silky, almost imperceptible tannins, this is a serious, long-term creation. Alas, volumes are down 20%, so expect some competition.

“The 2021 Château Margaux is clearly one of the finest wines of the vintage. Offering up a deep bouquet of raspberries, wild blueberries and plums mingled with sweet spices, violets, licorice and hints of cigar box, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with terrific depth at the core and beautifully refined, powdery tannins, concluding with a long, floral finish. Combining the vibrant flavors and moderate alcohol (13.1%) of a vintage of the last century with all the precision of the present in extraction and élevage, it is a timeless classic; and lest that be mistaken for a euphemism for a lack of concentration, note that the wine is analytically as high in polyphenols as the brilliant 2019. Representing only 36% of the estate's production, the 2021 is a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. 95-97+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

The Durantou sisters have continued in Denis’ footsteps, creating masterful Pomerols from L’Eglise Clinet. They decided to harvest early, before the rains that never materialised. As Neal Martin suggest this is a “streamlined” Eglise Clinet, very elegant and sleek, a wine that grows in stature. We were charmed by its super-refined, classy style.

“The 2021 L'Eglise-Clinet was picked September 27–29, a rapid harvest within three days; winemaker Noëmie Durantou told me she wanted to beat the forecasted rain that would have diluted the fruit. Raised in 75% new oak, this has a less concentrated, mineral-driven bouquet that bides its time, offering nuanced pine cone scents with aeration. The palate is clearly built around elegance, with its finely chiseled tannins and wonderful crushed stone notes. Perhaps a more streamlined l'Eglise-Clinet, showing wonderful precision. This Pomerol never tries to outdo its limitations or ape previous vintages, lending it an intangible sense of honesty. Beautiful. (14.0% alcohol) 94-96/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

Our final wine is the truly excellent Haut Bailly. The introduction of their superb new winery appears to have made an instant impact. Veronique’s 2021 is magnificent, brimming with high quality fruit and framed by beautifully judged tannins. This was a real highlight of our week and suggests a bright new phase in this chateau’s history.

“A classic in the making, the 2021 Haut-Bailly wafts from the glass with aromas of dark berries and wild plums mingled with sweet spices, loamy soil, raw cocoa and violets. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and concentrated, with bright acids, ultra-refined tannins and a long, penetrating finish, it's a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, only 22% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc. With yields of a mere 19 hectoliters per hectare, it's impressively intensely flavored despite its quintessentially elegant, classically proportioned profile. In many respects, it may represent the Cabernet-driven modern-day alter ego of the superb Merlot-dominant 1998 Haut-Bailly. 94-95+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

We kick off the week with one of the most revered names in the Médoc, Mouton Rothschild. This bastion of Pauillac has been on fine form, producing many hundred-point wines. The 2021 is an atypical style, which reflects the vintage conditions beautifully. It’s more approachable and floral than the usually introspective samples we’ve come to expect, with a charm and flow that really excites the palate. Alas, yields are again lower (a seemingly perennial problem) due to climatic conditions and a draconian selection.

“The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is a terrific wine in the making, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries and wild berries mingled with notions of violets, espresso roast, pipe tobacco and mint. Medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, it's a layered, enveloping wine that's ample and concentrated, with succulent acids, melting tannins and a long, resonant finish. A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc that attained 13.1% alcohol, this is a demonstrative, sensual Mouton that's the fruit of extreme selection, and that may well make my score seem conservative with further élevage. Bravo to the talented Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy and his team. 95-96/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

The 2021 Cos d’Estournel harks back to the wines of the 1980s, with its modest alcohol and frame, albeit in a more refined, technically superior style. There’s a real sense of classicism and a touch of austerity we’re not used to seeing at this address, the polar opposite of their controversial 2009; for our tastes, we’d much rather drink the 2021.

“The 2021 Cos d'Estournel is very promising, offering up rich aromas of dark berries, plums, exotic spices, loamy soil and rose petals, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless palate that's impressively vibrant and concentrated, with powdery tannins, bright acids and a long, penetrating finish. Only 53% of the production made it into the grand vin, and the blend is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Technical director Dominique Arangoïts reports that Cos was spared by frost and coulure at flowering, harvesting between September 23 and October 4, and fermenting a touch hotter than has been the case in recent years, at around 28-29 degrees Celsius. 94-95/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Daniel and Florence Cathiard’s wines regularly feature amongst our favourites. Their team led by the hugely talented Fabien Teitgen keep delivering the goods. This is a glorious and sensual wine full of dynamism and flair.

“A brilliant wine, the 2021 Smith Haut Lafitte offers up aromas of blackberries, violets, coniferous forest floor and dark chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, it's deep and impressively multidimensional, with good concentration, beautifully refined tannins and notable purity of fruit, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. The fruit of a severe selection, this blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot is testament to the Cathiard family's unwavering commitment to quality. 93-95/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

All of these châteaux happen to produce dry whites of repute. 2021 has yielded some quite exceptional examples of Sauvignon and Semillon, packed with tropical, citrus and floral aromas, broad, juicy palates, and framed by nervy, refreshing acidity. They are balanced and composed with lots of saline and mineral nuances. We can recommend Aile d’Argent, Cos d’Estournel Blanc and Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc as genuine alternatives to White Burgundy.

Pichon Baron is one of the most consistent and high achieving châteaux in the Médoc. We’ve learnt not to write these wines off from barrel. Yes, sometimes they don’t shine like their neighbour’s, but some sort of alchemy occurs during élevage. This has been borne out time and again at Southwold tastings, where Pichon Baron is a perennial overachiever. The fact that the 2021 was outstanding at this early stage bodes well. William Kelley describes it as “One of the real successes of the vintage, readers who overlook this wine will live to regret it”.

"The 2021 Pichon-Longueville Baron (which, incidentally, has been the legal name since 2021!) is matured in 70% new oak. It opens up nicely in the glass, revealing a straight-down-the-line, floral bouquet of violets intermingled with graphite notes. There is a delicacy about the aromatics that distinguishes it from recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very pure and "athletic.” No extra fat here; instead, perhaps, slender like the Mouton-Rothschild, which is not a bad thing. Nimble might be a better word. Very fine. 93-95/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

“A brilliant achievement, the 2021 Pichon-Longueville Baron opens in the glass with aromas of dark berries, blackcurrants, cigar wrapper, loamy soil, pencil shavings and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's concentrated and penetrating, with terrific concentration and a beautifully refined, classy profile. A blend of fully 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Merlot, it represents the wine this great estate could have produced in 1996. One of the real successes of the vintage, readers who overlook this wine will live to regret it. 94-96+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

It’s been another busy day on the Place de Bordeaux. Straight out of the blocks came a firm favourite for the wine of the vintage, Château Ausone. A photo finish couldn’t separate this from Lafleur. Alas, yields are miniscule, so the allocation process will be more complicated than ever…

“A blend of 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot, the 2021 Ausone is a strong candidate for the title of wine of the vintage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of wild blueberries and raspberries mingled with rose petals, violets, exotic spices, vine smoke and blood orange, it's full-bodied, seamless and sensual, with a satiny attack that segues into a deep, layered mid-palate of breathtaking precision and intensity without weight. Built around bright acids and ultra-refined tannins and concluding with a resonant, perfumed finish, this profound young Ausone represents the essence of this great limestone terroir. I am not in the habit of drinking six-month-old Bordeaux cask samples, but this is one wine that would have sorely tempted me to make an exception to that rule if my appointment at the estate hadn't been one of the first of the day! 97-100/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Another unicorn soon followed, Pichon Comtesse. Nicolas Glumineau made some drastic selections, which resulted in 70% less wine. It’s another stunning Pichon, we just hope there’s enough to go around…

“This estate is one of the most dynamic in contemporary Bordeaux, so it's no surprise that the 2021 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a terrific wine—though its a very atypical blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot, cropped at a derisory 15 hectoliters per hectare, hints at what a challenging year this was in the vineyards. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of wild berries, blackcurrants, iris, licorice, black truffles, cigar wrapper and sweet soil tones, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with beautifully refined tannins, lively acids and a supple but serious profile. It will see 60% new oak and, in all likelihood, a classical élevage of fully 18 months. 94-95+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Meanwhile Beychevelle has assembled an extremely accomplished winemaking and commercial team. Erwan Le Brozec, formally of Mouton Rothschild, presented their 2020 and 2021 side by side; both were superb. It’s hard to think of a chateau which has improved more in the last decade. The brand remains as popular as ever and the wines are worthy of the acclaim.

“The 2021 Beychevelle is a strong effort, exhibiting aromas of sweet berries and plums mingled with cigar wrapper and fresh mint. Medium to full-bodied, bright and fine-boned, it's deep and layered, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a saline finish. This wine only improved over the five times I tasted it. 91-94/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Our next pair are highly rated by the J&B team and have consistently triumphed at the Southwold blind tastings. Léoville Poyferré is a somewhat understated brand, but where it counts – in the glass – it surpasses the more notable labels with regularity. They continue their excellent form with a striking 2021 – it stakes a strong claim to the St Julien throne. Further south in Margaux, we have the quite brilliant Brane Cantenac. We were extremely impressed by the leading quartet from this appellation. Brane has a texture that is is quite uncommon for the vintage. Henri Lurton and his team have crafted an exceptionally fragrant and charming wine, with lots of presence and persistence. If it wasn’t already considered a “super second”, surely it must be now; a truly great wine.

“The 2021 Léoville Poyferré shows considerable promise, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet berries and plums mingled with spices, licorice and petals, framed by a deft touch of creamy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, it's a polished, charming wine with a pretty core of fruit, lively acids and ripe, powdery tannins, concluding with a penetrating finish. It's a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot.93-94+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“The 2021 Brane-Cantenac shows considerable promise, exhibiting a deep bouquet of wild berries, cassis, spices and violets, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and impressively concentrated palate that's framed by powdery tannins, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish. This seamless and enveloping wine is a blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and the balance Carmenère and Petit Verdot. Once again, it's derived from the château's best holdings on the plateau of Brane and is maturing in entirely new barrels. 93-95/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Under the supervision of Nicolas Audebert, Canon and Rauzan Segla have become the darlings of the primeurs line-up. This elegant Chanel owned pairing has been joined by Berliquet, which also looks destined for stardom.

Given the consistency and quality of Canon over the past decade, and its enviable position on the limestone Côte of St Emilion, it’s no surprise that there’s talk of a potential reclassification. An “A” line would be a fitting accessory. We love the style of the 2021; there is admirable ripeness, but with a real sense of tension and class.

Château Canon

“A brilliant wine in the making, the 2021 Canon offers up aromas of cherries, wild berries, licorice, sweet soil tones, raw cocoa, Indian spices and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's immensely refined and seamless, with a lively spine of acidity, ripe tannins and a long, penetrating, intensely saline finish. This beautifully balanced Canon is one of the classiest, most complete wines of the Right Bank in this vintage. Tasted four times.* 94-96/100*” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

As ever, Rauzan Segla is amongst the top wines of the Margaux appellation, and one of the highlights of the Médoc. Graceful and refined, with lots of subtle nuances, yet there’s a real concentration and depth too. This is a magnificent wine, brimming with exuberance and charm.

Château Rauzan Segla

“According to Nicolas Audebert, the 2021 Rauzan Ségla has a reduced proportion of Merlot, as a consequence of which it was felt that the Petit Verdot crowded out the final blend and was thus demoted to the Deuxième Vin. Matured in 60% new oak for an intended 18 months, it has a surprisingly opulent bouquet with conspicuous Merlot that has the hubris to vie for attention with the Cabernet. Very pure and well-defined, this gains intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very finely chiseled tannins, displaying disarming purity and poise. Minerally on the finish, with just the faintest hint of dark chocolate on the aftertaste. Precision, precision, precision. (13.0% alcohol) 94-96/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

“Representing around 44% of the estate's production (more or less as usual), the 2021 Rauzan-Ségla unwinds in the glass with aromas of minty cassis, blackberries, loamy soil, dark chocolate and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, deep and impressively concentrated, it's layered and seamless, with a sweet core of fruit, powdery tannins, lively acids and an impressively penetrating finish. The Rauzan team opted to ferment Merlot rather cooler than normal this year to moderate extraction. Tasted six times. 93-95/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

We also have a handful of cases of Berliquet left. This neighbour to Canon is now under the guidance of Nicolas Audebert and Thomas Duclos. Their 2021 is to our palates, the most cohesive and interesting example to date.

One of the greatest wines of the Médoc, Montrose 2021 is clearly a wine of First Growth promise. Hervé Berland and his formidable team continue to push the boundaries, achieving new levels of refinement and purity. We were wowed by the precise, fragrant, Cabernet style – this is a wine of exceptional clarity and underlying power. We expect Montrose to excel in warm, dry vintages, but the 2021 is proof that this chateau can be equally compelling in cooler vintages. If anyone needed further persuasion, Hervé has released the 2021 at £680 per 6, some 11% less than the 2020. Anyone looking for classical, refined, high quality claret should give this serious consideration; this may end up being one of the best value buys of the campaign.

“A brilliant achievement, the 2021 Montrose is reminiscent of a purer, more precise, modern-day version of the estate's 1996. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of blackcurrants, pencil shavings, sweet loamy soil, black truffle and nicely integrated new oak, it's full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with terrific depth at the core, lively acids and a seamless, harmonious profile. Exhibiting beautifully refined tannins and an impressive sense of completeness, it's a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot—standing out as one of the few top wines of the vintage that actually includes more Merlot and less Cabernet than in recent years. 94-96/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

There seems to be a rush to release before the Jubilee celebrations get underway. Today, we’ve already received news from four favourites in Pauillac and St Julien. Lynch Bages takes top billing with its beautiful rendition of 2021, which to some commentators resembles a modern-day return to their great wines of the 1980s. It’s a more elegant, less muscular style than of late; beautifully integrated, full of verve, this should be a joy to drink in a decade, and last for several more.

“The 2021 Lynch-Bages, picked at 34hL/ha and matured in 75% new oak for a planned 18 months, has an outstanding bouquet, beautifully-defined and sensual, a mixture of black and blueberry fruit, very fragrant. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, good body and density, quite precise with a tensile finish. This fans out nicely on the finish. A very classy Lynch Bages with echoes of Jean-Michel Cazes' classics from the late eighties. 13.14% alcohol. 94-96/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

GPL is one of our favourite wines of the vintage. Xavier and Emeline have fashioned a wine of sheer class. Noble and classical as always, there’s a plumpness to the mid-palate and the most wonderful delivery of fruit. This is as good as it gets outside of the First Growths. At £300 per six, this is a wine to buy in multiple formats.

“The 2021 Grand-Puy-Lacoste is a beauty, bursting with aromas of dark berries, plums, rose petals, violets, warm spices and cigar wrapper. Medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless, it's fleshy and enveloping, with melting tannins, succulent acids and a pleasure-bent, demonstrative personality. While it's clear that this is an irresistibly charming, satisfying Pauillac from the Borie family, it wouldn't surprise me to see it acquire additional depth, flesh and seriousness with further barrel maturation. 92-94+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Next comes Branaire Ducru, a château that has really impressed recently. Always sensibly priced, the last few vintages have displayed a real sense of class and refinement. William Kelley describes it as a “beautiful wine”, we thoroughly agree – this is everything you could want from a St Julien.

“Having tasted the 2021 Branaire-Ducru six times over the course of a month and a half, I feel confident in saying that it is a beautiful wine that numbers among the vintage's real successes. Offering up aromas of raspberry coulis and red cherries mingled with notions of rose petals, cigar box and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, with a layered core of fruit, lively acids and beautifully powdery tannins. Why is it quite so good? It isn't because a lot of wine was declassified, as around 60% of the estate's production went into the grand vin this year—a touch more than average. Rather, the key factors seem to be waiting to pick despite an alarming weather forecast; the blend itself, which emphasizes ripe Cabernet and the estate's later-ripening Merlot on clay-limestone soils; and the fact that a partially completed new winery means that Branaire already had fully 63 fermentation vats at its disposal to pick and vinify parcel by parcel. The exact composition is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 93-94+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Last, but by no means least is Château Talbot. Under the watchful eye of Jean-Michel Laporte, formally of Château La Conseillante in Pomerol, the wines have really improved. We only tasted this once, at a varied UGC tasting, and we weren’t thrilled. The critics obviously had better samples and are more generous with their praise. Given its superb track record, we’d expect this to perform much better in bottle.

“This is a fine effort that reminds Jean-Michel Laporte of the 2001 vintage in style—though the 2021 will benefit from all the improvements that the last two decades have witnessed at this address. 91-92+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate.

We are delighted to announce the release of the entire 2021 portfolio from the Guinaudeau family: Château Lafleur, Les Pensées, Les Perrières, Les Champs Libres, Château Grand Village and Château Grand Village Blanc.

To download the Château Lafleur 2021 offer please click here

Omri described 2021 as a “vintage of work”. This is not something the Guinaudeau clan is afraid of. Few teams are as well prepared, but even for the most meticulous, nature can sometimes present new challenges. Omri also defines 2021 as another “multi-vintage year”. The first half of summer was oceanic and presented mildew pressure. It wasn’t the heaviest rain, but it was unrelenting and required a lot of 'gardening'. When summer finally arrived, the team worked the soils helping oxygenate the vines. Finally, 2021 provided the opportunity to make wines with lift and elegance. This is yet another impeccable range of wines from the Guinaudeau family estates, possible the strongest we've ever tasted from barrel.

Lafleur itself may not be quite at the same level as the 2019 and 2016, but it is unquestionably one of the wines of 2021. It continues an impressive sequence of vintages and will thrill and enchant those lucky enough to own a case. Impressive as Lafleur is, Les Perrières and Grand Village Rouge are the real revelations. The Bouchet planted on the limestone terroirs at Les Perrières creates wines of extraordinary intensity and drive, while Grand Village Rouge more than ever displays much of the same DNA as Lafleur. This refinement is in part due to some savage selections. The vineyard holdings have been reduced from 17 hectares to just 10.5, eliminating anything that wasn’t considered the best terroir – the result is astonishing.

2021 is clearly a successful vintage for white wines. We’ve frequently applauded Les Champs Libres for its laser-like precision and energy. Now these characteristics are evident in the Grand Village Blanc too. Influenced by the Guinaudeaus’ appreciation for the finest wines from the Mosel, Burgundy and the Loire, these are two of the most focused and interesting dry whites we’ve found from Bordeaux.

2021 Château Lafleur

“The Guinaudeau family's mantra is to "never submit to the vintage," and in 2021 that meant 10 sleepless nights of frost protection and a growing season that required quick reactions to perform the necessary treatments without neglecting the other important viticultural tasks of the year. The reward is the profound 2021 Lafleur, a brilliant blend of 52% Cabernet Franc and 48% Merlot that wafts from the glass with aromas of wild berries, violets, rose petals, vine smoke and black truffle. Full-bodied, layered and seamless, it's deep and penetrating, with superb concentration and beautifully refined structuring tannins, concluding with a long, resonant finish. A monument in the making, I wouldn't be surprised to see it transcend my bracketed score when revisited in bottle. 96-98/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Allocations

Château Lafleur is one of the most sought-after wines in the world. As ambassadors, it is our responsibility to distribute to clients who are buying primarily for drinking. As such, Lafleur, Les Pensées, Les Perrières and Les Champs Libres will be subject to our allocation process. Please place your orders through your account manager and we will let you know if you are successful in due course. In line with our producers’ expectations, we ask for wines not to be sold or moved out of Cellarers Wines Ltd (except to a home delivery address) within five years of release from the producer. We reserve the right to withhold the offer of future allocations to clients we believe are not observing this rule.

The white wines will be shipped Spring 2023, the reds will be shipped Spring 2024. The price below excludes duty and VAT. Other formats are available on request. Please contact your account manager or follow the link below to place your order.

We don’t know much about Laroque, but we do know we like their wines. A chance encounter with the 2018 opened our eyes to this St Émilion, described by Antonio Galloni as the appellation’s “brightest rising star”. David Suire, who worked for many years with Nicolas Thienpont is doing a tremendous job, crafting wines of intensity and class, which for the time being offer exceptional value. We echo Mr Galloni’s sentiments, “don’t miss it”!

“The 2021 Laroque is very promising indeed, and winemaker David Suire and I agree that it is likely to surpass the estate's 2018 vintage in quality. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of sweet berries, plums and cherries, framed by a discreet patina of new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, seamless and complete, with excellent concentration, lively acids and ripe, melting tannins. A blend of 99% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, it represents 45% of the estate's production and derives from vines more than 50 years old. 92-95/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Our next selection is Les Ormes de Pez, the Cazes family’s estate in St Estèphe. With Lynch Bages know how, this has become a regular amongst our best value buy selections. Stylish, fluid and balanced, this classical, well-judged claret comes highly recommended.

“The 2021 Ormes de Pez is matured in 45% new oak. This has a fragrant nose, very well defined, in fact, perhaps more sophisticated than the Haut-Batailley at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a little powdery in texture, touches of graphite towards the almost Pauillac-like finish. A stylish Saint-Estèphe, this is recommended. 13.13% alcohol. 91-93/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

Back on the right bank, we have perennial favourites from the Durantou family: Saintayme, La Chenade, Les Cruzelles and Montlandrie. As ever, these are all highly successful, especially Saintayme and Les Cruzelles. You can buy any of these with confidence. In fact it is hard to think of a better value quartet in Bordeaux.

2021 is the sort of vintage that brings out the best in François Mitjavile. Tertre Roteboeuf is one of Bordeaux’s most idiosyncratic wines, and devotees will no doubt be thrilled by the 2021 incarnation. Boasting all the hedonistic delights one would expect, it is aromatically alluring, texturally thrilling and possesses a newfound dynamism that makes it totally captivating. Roc de Cambes is equally mesmerizing. Any fans of the Tertre Roteboeuf style will be delighted to own this chip off the old block. As usual, Tertre Roteboeuf will be subject to allocation, priority going to those who buy across the Mitjavile domaines.

“The 2021 Le Tertre Roteboeuf is extremely promising, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, mulberries and plums mingled with subtle hints of spices, raw cocoa, espresso roast and cigar wrapper. Medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, it's deep and concentrated, with a layered, sensual mid-palate that's supple and lively, concluding with a long, expansive finish. This is just the sort of vintage that François Mitjavile excels in, and it is worth a special effort to seek out. 94-96/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Moving northwest along the Côte, we have the revitalised Berliquet, now under the watchful eyes of the superstar duo, Nicolas Audebert and Thomas Duclot. The chateau was purchased by the Wertheimer brothers of the Chanel fashion house and neighbouring Chateau Canon. Much work and investment are beginning to pay dividends. We were really impressed by the quality of fruit and detailed tannins. At £229 per 6, this offers Canonesque charm at a fair price.

Over in the Medoc, Hubert Delon has released his Clos du Marquis, which is effectively a non-classified St Julien from Second Growth quality vineyards. Lying to the west of the D2, this clos is surrounded by the likes of Léoville Poyferré, Léoville Barton and Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. The 2021 is a classically styled (as it is every vintage) St Julien that will delight the purists amongst us. There are no globs of glycerine here, this is strict and athletic, a wine that will reward patience.

A stone’s throw away at Chateau Haut Batailley, Jean-Charles Cazes and his team have been busy planting and making improvements. We’ve been impressed by the transformation here and recent showings at Southwold verify just how far this Fifth Growth has progressed. Mr Galloni ranks this amongst the top wines of the appellation with 93-95 points.

Our round up finishes with Pontet Canet. We found this rather divisive in the cellar. It was harvested late and possesses a huge, powerful core, but this is somewhat overshadowed by its domineering tannins. Some felt it would eventually reach a point of harmony, others weren’t as optimistic. It is available at £445 per 6.

Sometimes our tastings at Château Palmer leave us a little perplexed. This certainly wasn’t the case with the 2021; we totally get this wine. It’s sheer magic, and in our opinion one of the best wines of the Médoc (a view backed up by most if not all the critics). Alas, yields of just 22 hl/ha will ensure this is in short supply, so we advise followers of Palmer to get their skates on! This is not a wine you’ll want to miss. Powerful and virile, yet sophisticated and poised, this is one of the most texturally interesting, most layered, most alluring wines of the vintage. We really can’t remember a more impressive showing from barrel. Alter Ego was a precursor to Palmer. Some lesser plots were damaged by frost, so the blend here is Cabernet dominant (60%). Again, this is one of the most cohesive and striking Alter Egos we can recall tasting.

Palmer

“The late-ripening, low-yielding vintage has delivered a beautifully balanced wine of striking intensity in the 2021 Palmer. Unwinding in the glass with complex aromas of blackberries, exotic spices, licorice, violets and burning embers, it's full-bodied, layered and enveloping, with a deep, concentrated core of fruit, ripe tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, expansive finish. If recent vintages of Palmer have set new records in their power and richness, the 2021 marks a return to the classical proportions of the 1990s—with all the additional concentration and precision that Thomas Douroux's pioneering viticulture and thoughtful winemaking have brought to the equation at this address in the interim. The grand vin is a blend of 56% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot, picked between September 24 and October 15. Tasted twice. 95-97/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“The 2021 Palmer has a discrete bouquet that demands patience. This does not race out of the blocks, rather it unfurls with subtle graphite scents, blackberry, hints of cassis, plus some of the briny aromas that I noticed on the Alter Ego. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins that frame the cedar and graphite infused black fruit. Quite strict for a Palmer, yet fresh with a cerebral, saline finish that is almost Pauillac-like in style despite the majority from old Merlot vines that are situated on some of its finest gravel terroirs. Very long, very suave on the finish. Superb. 94-96/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

Alter Ego

“The 2021 Alter Ego de Palmer is a somewhat unusual blend, in that it's fully 60% Cabernet Sauvignon this year, the estate's Merlot having suffered in the April frosts. Exhibiting aromas of cherries, sweet berries and plums mingled with hints of spices and pencil shavings, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and polished, with a charming, seamless profile founded on beautifully refined structuring tannins. Tasted twice. 91-93/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“The 2021 Alter Ego has quite a penetrating bouquet with an accentuated marine/oyster shell aspect that combines with the vivid blue and black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit, certainly a more structured Alter Ego than usual with a fine line of acidity and graphite/cedar notes furnishing the finish. This will require some bottle age, but it should mature extremely well. 90-92/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

2021 marks the last vintage of Anthony Barton’s long and illustrious life at Château Langoa Barton. It is also the first vintage to be produced in the new state of the art winery. As ever, Léoville Barton will be one of the best buys of the vintage, representing true “super second” quality at a fraction of the price of its neighbours. William Kelley calls it a “terrific success”; we concur, this is a very seductive, refined Léoville Barton. Less introverted than normal, the 2021 is all grace, purity and glorious fruit, wrapped in the silkiest of tannins. The Langoa is equally compelling and looks rather striking with its 200th anniversary label. In our opinion, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better Claret for less than £30 per bottle.

Over in St Emilion, Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal has released her exquisite 2021 Chateau Angélus. The latest vintage is perhaps the most cohesive and sophisticated example to date. We love the style. Detailed, layered and graceful, brimming with latent power, this has a real sense of exhilaration. William Kelley suggests he “wouldn't be surprised to see it upstage a number of more touted vintages once it's in bottle.”

Léoville Barton

“A terrific success, the 2021 Léoville Barton unwinds in the glass with aromas of blackcurrant, wild berries and plums mingled with hints of pencil shavings, loamy soil and cigar wrapper. Medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, it's concentrated and tensile, with beautifully refined tannins, lively acids and all the class that an elevated percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon growing in deep gravel can provide. It's the first vintage vinified in the Barton family's new winery, and I suspect that contributes to the ultra-refined quality of tannin this year. The blend is 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. Tasted three times. 93-95/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Langoa Barton

“The first vintage vinified in the Barton family's new winery, the 2021 Langoa Barton is immensely promising, offering up aromas of cassis, cigar wrapper, loamy soil and black truffle, followed by a medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless palate that's deep and complete, its vibrant core of fruit framed by ripe tannins and lively acids. It's a blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. Tasted three times. 92-94/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Angélus

“A brilliant wine that signposts this estate's evolution under Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, the 2021 Angélus is a blend of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot, with fully half of the old-vine Cabernet Franc maturing in foudres rather than 225-liter barriques. The result is a wine of unprecedented purity and finesse, unwinding in the glass with compelling aromas of plums, raspberries, rose petals, vine smoke, blood orange and warm spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and layered palate with a rich and fleshy core that entirely conceals its structuring chassis of ultra-refined tannins. Bright and sapid, it's striking for its integration and elegance at this early stage, and I wouldn't be surprised to see it upstage a number of more touted vintages once it's in bottle. 94-96+/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

The clos of Léoville Las Cases is one of the most recognisable sites in the Médoc. This magnificent vineyard overlooking the Gironde adjoins the great Enclos of Château Latour. We are talking hallowed ground! As with all vintages of Las Cases, expect a classically styled, impressive, long-term wine. Dominated by Cabernet, this is all graphite and black fruits – taut and focussed. If you want a fleshy fruit bomb, turn away now; this is for drinkers who appreciate architectural lines and are blessed with patience. We have no doubt this will develop into an exceptional Léoville, which may well resemble past glories from the 80s and 90s.

“The 2021 Léoville Las Cases was picked from 28 September until 8 October and includes just 5% Merlot from the northern sectors of the vineyard due to coulure. They found that increased percentages of Merlot did not contribute to the blend. Matured in 85% new oak, it has an intense nose with black fruit, graphite and light iris flower aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, quite a potent marine influence at play, almost briny (perhaps accentuated by the changeable weather on the day of my visit). Very impressive in terms of depth and backbone/grip with iodine and oyster shells towards the finish, this is a cerebral Las-Cases that will demand patience. Then again, name me a vintage of Las-Cases that doesn't! Alcohol here is at 13.20%. 94-96/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

“One of the wines of the vintage, the 2021 Léoville Las Cases is reminiscent of a hypothetical blend of the 1999 and 1996—only better. Offering up incipiently complex aromas of cassis, plums and dark berries mingled with loamy soil, cigar wrapper and exotic spices, it's full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with superb amplitude and concentration, velvety tannins, lively acids and a long, penetrating finish. Uniting classicism and charm, it exemplifies how a great terroir, exigent agronomy and meticulous winemaking can deliver greatness even in a less propitious vintage. It's a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and a mere 5% Merlot this year, checking in at 13.2% alcohol. 95-97/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

We are all in one accord – Cheval Blanc is one of the wines of the vintage; a thought provoking, intense, layered St Emilion that exudes class and style. In many ways it reflects the direction Pierre-Olivier has taken this château in better than any of his previous impressions. There’s a freshness and focus here that is such a feature of the vintage. Cool, classical flavours abound, yet there’s a real sense of control and composure. Alas, this quality has come at a cost. 35% less wine has been released. To secure an allocation, please contact your account manager or follow the link below.

“The 2021 Cheval Blanc was picked between September 22 and October 14, and for the first time in many years there is a higher proportion of Cabernet Franc. This has a lovely bouquet, very clean and precise, featuring black cherry, wild mint, sous-bois and orange sorbet, all vivacious and very focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, quite structured and very linear and strict. A bit like Ausone, this is an uncompromising Cheval Blanc, very saline and marine-influenced. While not as flattering as the 2020, it will appeal more to those who prefer a cerebral Cheval Blanc. One of the stars of the Right Bank in this challenging growing season. 95-97/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

“A terrific achievement, the 2021 Cheval Blanc is a blend of 52% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of raspberries and cherries mingled with notions of cigar wrapper, vine smoke, rose petals and violets, it's full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with an elegantly muscular chassis of ripe, powdery tannin and lively animating acids. Long and penetrating, this is a serious, rather structured young Cheval Blanc that will require and reward patience. 95-97/100” – William Kelley, Wine Advocate

“A blend of 52% Cabernet Franc, 43% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2021 Cheval Blanc is deep purple-black in color. It opens with intense notes of chocolate-covered cherries, blackberry preserves, and cassis, plus suggestions of violets, star anise, chocolate box, and an exotic waft of sandalwood. Medium-bodied, the palate has a great core of black plums and cassis layers, supported by firm, grainy tannins and seamless freshness, leading to a long and spicy finish on this beguilingly beautiful wine. 2029-2059. 95-97/100” – Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Independent

“This is so finely textured with very precise, tight tannins. Medium to full body. Lots of layers here with black and blue fruit, stones, tar, dark cocoa and spices. Dried herbs. Long and persistent. Stays focused all the way. So precise. 52% cabernet franc, 43% merlot and 5% cabernet sauvignon. 97-98/100” – James Suckling

The slopes of Pavie are revered as one of the finest terroirs of Bordeaux. Under the stewardship of Gerard Perse, Pavie has split opinion. We’ve often found the wines hard to love. Their uncompromising tannins were not for the faint hearted. In recent years we’ve witnessed a subtle change of direction, a return to freshness and balance. The 2021 is to our tastes the most charming and eye-catching example to date. There’s a sense of effortless power, a huge complex core, but this is vibrant and detailed with tannins that frame rather than dominate. It is an impressive and grand scale St Emilion, which should age gracefully for many years.

“The 2021 Pavie was picked at 33hL/ha from 28 September until 12 October and matured in 75% new oak, the rest one-year. Team Pavie decided to wait to pick the Cabernet until after the rains just prior to harvest. This is clean and precise on the nose, the Cabernet components (48% of the blend) imparting graphite and light cedar aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins that frame layered limestone-infused black fruit, quite vibrant and conveying a sense of energy towards the finish. This has the most persistency of Gérard Perse's wines, and whilst I do not hold it up as the greatest Pavie in recent years, it is clearly top of the tree among his portfolio this year. Superb. 14.14% alcohol. 93-95/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com

Duhart Milon is more than ever a chip off the old block. Domaines Barons de Rothschild’s other Pauillac vineyards are later ripening than those of Lafite. In the past, Duhart has distinguished itself in hotter years, but now through better understanding of the terroir and viticultural advances, they're finding greater consistency and poise. The 2021 is one of the finest examples we’ve ever tasted with a graphite centric nose, cool dark fruits, minerals and a hint of violets. Impressive and classy, yet restrained and tense, it is very much cut from the same cloth as its more illustrious neighbour. We believe this represents one of the best values from Pauillac and will thrill purists looking for serious, classically styled claret.

“Incorporating fully 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2021 Duhart-Milon unwinds in the glass with aromas of sweet berries, cigar wrapper and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, lively and persuasively concentrated, with beautifully refined tannins and a long, penetrating finish, it's a classy, serious wine that reflects all the progress this estate has been making over the last decade. 91-93+/100”