Château Troplong Mondot, 1er Grand Cru Classé, St Emilion,

Oak dominant, toasted cedar on the opening beats, but it clears and there is charming dark berry fruit behind. Enjoyable texture, structure, architecture, shot through with undergrowth, earth, cigar box, smoke and liquorice. Hard not to be impressed by the power that runs through this, with muscular tannins that benefit from the fresh mint leaf and eucalyptus that comes in to balance things out on the finish. This vintage had the biggest yields for years at Troplong, which almost certainly helped give this some light through the concentration. 100% new oak, Michel Rolland consultant.

Red-ruby. Raspberry, plum, licorice and mocha on the nose, plus suggestions of meat, leather and burning tobacco. Supple and smooth on entry, then a bit simple in the middle palate, with a slight mintiness emerging with aeration. This is less filled in than the promising 2006, with less verve and definition. Finishes broad but slightly dry.