St Aubin, Les Frionnes, 1er Cru,

The Lamys are a celebrated Burgundian family who have been working in vineyards since 1640. Domaine Hubert Lamy itself was first created in 1973. The course of the domaine’s history began to change in 1995 when Hubert’s son Olivier joined, bringing with him ambition and ideas. Contracts to sell grapes to negociants were terminated, new vineyards were bought and rented, quality soared. Olivier is the vigneron’s vigneron: Passionate, obsessive, even, about his work in the vineyards. He prunes famously short and late, a key factor in saving a large part of his vineyard from the notorious 2016 frost. Other winemaking features he is renowned for are his sparing use of new oak (20% at the most,) favouring of 600l demi-muid barrels over the 225l barriques and a typically early harvest. After a long slow fermentation the wines are aged for a year in barrel followed by a year in tank. Sulphur is added when required as a result of analysis rather than systematically, so doses tend to be low. Lamy has become a benchmark Burgundian domaine, celebrated for the energy, focus and purity of its wines. These are livewire burgundies you won’t forget in a hurry.