JJ Prüm

Joh. Jos Prüm is one of the Mosel’s, if not the whole of Germany’s, most revered and respected Estates. For many years run by the inimitable Manfred Prüm, it is his daughter Katharina who is now at the helm, with Manfred making only the occasional appearance in the tasting room. This is a staunchly traditional address, and amongst the most enigmatic as no-one has yet made it down to the mysterious cellars. In the Sonnenuhr of Wehlen the Prüms own a portion of one of the Mittel Mosel’s top vineyards. Its steep south-facing dark slate slopes tend to result in deeply flavoured, mineral yet rich and smoky wines. In addition, they manipulate some plots in the next door Himmelreich of Graacher which produces animated and engaging wines, with fresh acidities and plenty of energy. It is a vineyard that can excel in warmer years. There are also vines in Zeltingen Sonnenuhr and Bernkastler Lay that tend to produce one or two expressions each year. These are unashamedly classic examples of Mosel Riesling, exciting and long-lived wines produced predominantly in stainless tanks to avoid the addition of too much sulphur. They are bottled later than most Mosel and often take a few years in bottle before showing the true character, but patience will be rewarded! Old bottles from this estate are much sought after…

2023 Vintage: “Every week I am getting happier with 2023,” beamed Katharina Prüm, as the famously reticent Prüm output proves to be really rather charming in 2023. Like most producers in the Middle Mosel, harvest began early on 16th September and ran through to 18th October, finishing on the very same day they started in 2021. “We moved quicky as it was warm and humid and we had the ripeness, so it made sense to take what we had and not chance more rain. We needed to reduce the yield a little bit by sorting through the grapes which was a shame but the results are clear and the Pradikats [different concentration levels] fit the hierarchy nicely.” Excitingly, a wave of good noble rot botrytis came in at the end, leading to various gloriously intellectual, slate rich Auslesen and Goldkapsels that live long in the memory. We loved what we tasted here. At this stage, the 2023s are carried by a river of slender fruits and minerals, with a charming, accessible, refreshing feel.