Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, 2022

Aromatically this is all limestone and crisp red fruits with that racy detailed mineral character that seems to define Bruno’s Bonnes Mares. In a vintage like 2022 this gives a singular sense of freshness to the wine. Across the palate, powerful and firm flavours gather around a core of refined structure, with a wash of briary red fruits that add a sense of caressing, if salty, energy. This is serious. Velvet power and persistent intensity. Apart from one tiny parcel of 0.12 ha situated on the Chambolle side of the vineyard, the core of this cuvée comes from two parcels in the Morey commune, one of which is next to Clos de Tart. One part was planted in 1946 another in 1980. This makes Bruno Clair the only producer with Bonnes Mares vines within the Morey St Denis commune. Bruno describes the wine as being three quarters from red soil based vines and one quarter white limestone marne-based soils, resulting in a wine of great intensity and vigour.