Roberto Voerzio

Roberto Voerzio is undeniably one of the stars of Piedmont and a Barolo producer with a world-wide following, his philosophy is a simple one; from the healthiest lowest-yielding vines, in the greatest plots, come the very finest wines. His vineyard management is meticulous and covers hard pruning, green harvesting, pruning, and leaf thinning which, together with his policy of having high planting density, result in an exceptionally small production. The yields are the lowest in the region, 500g of fruit per vine for the crus and even 1kg per vine for Dolcetto and Barberas - the yield of most top growers' best Barlo Crus. In the winery Roberto's vision is to make the purest expression of Nebbiolo as possible. Fermentations are with wild yeasts, extractions are very gentle using the light "pumping over" technique, elevage takes place in both french oak with a maximum of 30% new, both large casks and barriques. The wines are an exquisite mix of intensity and lightness, measured concentration and bright juicy, moreish flavours. The Voerzios are not afraid to reject a cuvée either, if hail or a fermentation deviation prevents quality from being tip top, as with Cerequio in 2011 and La Serra in 2006. Some of Italy's greatest wines.

2015 Vintage

A bigger crop than the minute quantities of last year but this still goes down as one of the smaller Voerzio vintages, drought and hail the culprits. Winemaker Cesare Bussolo considers 2015 to be like 2000 or 2007 “one of those powerful but drinkable and silky vintages,” adding “the vineyards all show their own characteristics very well but there is also a common denominator between all of them which is tannins that are sweet and round.” Very sadly one wine that was not produced in 2015 was the Sarmassa, whose vines have all been ripped up and replanted. The debutant Fossati makes up for the loss. After years of being blended into the regular Nebbiolo, is now old enough and strong enough to stand on its own two feet! These certainly rate as some of the most sensual wines Roberto Voerzio has made in recent years.

2016 Vintage

2016 is a red hot vintage from Voerzio - these are some of the most lifted, precise and transparent wines we have ever tasted from this estate. It was also the Great Escape: Voerzio were saved by the hail nets they bought in in 2015, having had five hail-storms in July and August 2016. Production is thankfully normal this year. Describing the vintage Roberto comments “There was a good amount of heat with light rains in June, July and August, which meant the plants were happy and healthy. It calmed the temperatures and kept everything super balanced. We harvested between the 15-20th September.The 2016 harvest was like a mini summer, very easy conditions. The unique characteristics of 2016 were the very big day-night differences during the harvest. 25C degrees during the day and 12C during the night. This makes for classical aromas, high acidity, freshness and crisp tannins. The wines are similar to 2006 in profile but better balanced and more attractive from the beginning.” All the 2016 crus have been produced this year – apart from Sarmassa, after they replanted the plot to high density in 2015. The next vintage of this will be 2018. The Barbera Pozzo 2016 will he held back for an extra year, needing more time to in bottle to soften.

2017 Vintage

Roberto Voerzio considers 2017 to be a “unique” year and is at pains to avoid comparisons with another famously extreme, warm vintage – 2003, noting that “in 2003 there was a peak of 40 degrees in the middle of summer while in 2017 temperatures were decidedly milder ( around 30/32 degrees.)” What really defined 2017 was the drought, according to Roberto “it did not rain for 5 months from May!” but he felt that their habitual practices of manuring after the preceding harvest and deep ploughing, helped to avoid stress: “bunches were lush, full of health and full of energy”. Colours here are lighter than in 2016 but the wines are very aromatic, pretty and forthcoming with generous fruit profiles and relatively gentle tannic structures. Despite the ripe fruit, alcohols are a fairly measured by Piedmont standards, being around the 14% mark. This may not be a vintage to lay down for as long as 2016, but it is one that will seduce and give great pleasure over the coming 10-15 years.

2018 Vintage

In La Morra, the Roberto Voerzio team were buzzing about their new releases. For, apart from the overall quality of the year, 2018 sees Sarmassa come back into the family fold following an extensive re-planting programme, while the inaugural 2016 release of a very special cuvee named RV350 – a reference to the mere 350g of fruit per vine in this cuvee - is set to make a splash across the region. The rest of the Voerzio crus remain true to their tried and tested 500g per vine approach; tiny yields that would be absolutely unconscionable for 99% of vignerons! Fermentations are carried out in stainless steel and the wines spend two years in oak, a combination of large and small formats, depending on the size of the cuvee, with a maximum of 20-25% new. We feel that the Voerzio 2018s’ overall vibrancy and unforced, natural energy sets them apart from many this year, with a caress of lithe, rounded tannins which makes this one of the most elegant and attractive vintages we have ever tasted at this legendary estate – a year in which their habitually high standards of vineyard management and strict selection process evidently meant they were able to navigate the challenges of Spring with great aplomb. In the words of Cesare Bussolo, “2018 is a fundamentally drinkable vintage and it was born like that. People think that means it’s just “easy”, but that’s not true. The wines have the stamp of the place on them, but they are also wines that demand another glass. It’s rare to arrive with both of those qualities so early on.”

2019 Vintage

“A very good vintage, a classic more austere year with beautiful tannins of finesse and elegance and power. Since 2010 we have used no press wine at all and the wines keep getting better. We adore the harmony of the power and the quality of the material in 2019.” So says Roberto Voerzio who, now in his seventies, has all the energy and intensity of a person half his age! Dressed in standard-issue puffer jacket and bright yellow trainers, he walked us through a highly accomplished and sophisticated range of wines that will definitely appeal to those seeking the very best. Roberto described how the wines were all pressed off after 15–20 days on the skins to avoid any overtly herbaceous notes in the wine, adding that 2019 was not an extreme year as temperatures in the summer rarely exceeded 35C, aided by a decent amount of winter snow over the 2018–2019 winter which kept the water table high. A few issues at flowering meant that the crop was slightly reduced, beyond their usual painstakingly low yields of 500g per vine, so the crus were all raised exclusively in barrique not exceeding 20% new oak. Torriglione 2018, normally released a year behind the others, was not produced, nor was the Barbera Pozzo 2018 which is undergoing a replanting process, so the little that was produced in 2018, 2019 and 2020 will form part of the entry-level Barbera Cerreto blend.

2020 Vintage

Roberto Voerzio describes 2020 as a “a beautiful, regular, classic season. The wines exhibit excellent structure, being intense yet fine and elegant at the same time. A beautiful ruby red colour stands out. The aromas are deep, reminiscent of violet, wild strawberries, blackberries, raspberries and currants. Given the finesse and elegance they already possess today, they will undoubtedly become extraordinary and unquestionably long-lived wines when they reach 8-10 years of age. They could follow a similar path to those of the 1998 and 2001 vintages.” Roberto is as youthful and active as ever. One would never know he was in his seventies. A man who has always trod his own path, Voerzio stepped back from what he dubs “score politics” a few years ago, believing that the wines need time to settle post-bottling and be given time to breathe in the glass – a model that doesn’t necessarily accommodate journalists on a tight schedule. He has a point though. For the 2020s we tasted evolved remarkably over course of our meeting, revealing glimpses of true grandeur with air. We were bowled over by the Fossati. Ferments are spontaneous in stainless steel and tend toward a sumptuous, silky La Morra feel, anchored in fine minerality according to site. Ageing takes place in a range of formats, based on volume. For most of the wines this means a combination of traditional large cask and 500L tonneau, with a very a small amount in barrique – just Torriglione and Sarmassa – for two years. 2020 is an effusive, successful vintage here, complete in style with real breadth and finesse. To consider that they might develop along the lines of the 2001s is a very exciting prospect.

2021 Vintage

Davide and Roberto Voerzio were effusive in their praise for 2021. “It is a vintage of colour and freshness – it is highly aromatic but deep meanwhile. It’s everything you want!” This year’s collection is vivid and intense – each vineyard is very clearly rendered, and the wines prove a thrill to taste. Consistent with their famously low yields, which accelerate ripening, harvest took place from 20-25th September in sunny conditions. We fell for the Cerequio on our visit, but any of the wines could have their day, such is the quality. Ferments are carried out spontaneously in stainless steel and ageing takes place in a range of formats, according to volume. For most of the wines this means a combination of traditional large cask and 500L tonneau, with a very a small amount in barrique – just Torriglione and Sarmassa – for two years. On those, they were both hugely impressive in our tasting; broad but refined, standing up well next to the RV350 2019 – Roberto’s first-rate Riserva that is only produced in the best years. It is relevant to note that Roberto Voerzio stepped back from what he dubs “score politics” a few years ago, believing that the wines need time to settle post-bottling and be given time to breathe while tasting – a model that doesn’t tend to accommodate critics on a tight schedule. All of the Voerzio vineyards are farmed organically.