Port Ellen, 1983, 32 Year Old, Islay, (15th Release), 1983

A sweet, intense, enigmatic and uncompromising Port Ellen, that displays a complex tour de force of aromas and flavours. Polished teak in colour with good beading. On the nose it is intense and very complex. At first deeply fruity, with red apple skins or fresh pears in wine. Then a rich toffee note develops, over a waxy mineral base that gives way to hot sand, sea air, seaweed and bonfire ash. With time, a soft liquid brown sugar and menthol character develops, alongside dried orange peel, fruitcake and toffee, honey and ripe autumnal fruits. Medium-bodied on the palate it is sweet, prickly and drying, with a great mix of wood ash, burnt jam tarts, treacle toffee and caramelized orange. Then yet more all-pervading smoke with a spicy-herbal complex featuring cloves. Water makes things cooler and milder yet doesn’t alter the well-balanced flavour profile. Dark toffee first, then smoked meats, kippers, ash and cleansing phenols. The finish is long, cooling and complex; drying, yet also coating. Instantly appetising, with toffee apple, burnt toast, lemon zest, ripe red apples, a burnt plum tart. Deeply herbal and heavy with wood smoke, which is softer with water: minty now, with barley sugar, while the charred toast is spread with honey.