Château Langoa Barton, 3ème Cru Classé, St Julien,

Ruby red colour, welcoming grilled raspberry and plum fruits, austere even after ageing, but carefully constructed, and this has charm, with cedar, cloves and sandalwood grilling to the tannins, and a lovely salted cracker uplift on the finish. Well handled. 200 years under the Barton family, so a special label that we can see now tasting in bottle. 60% new oak. Technical director François Brehant, consultant Eric Boissenot.

The 2021 Langoa Barton, the first year to be made in the new cellar, is a blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple in color, it tumbles out of the glass with expressive notes of fresh blackcurrants, black cherries, and black raspberries, plus suggestions of clove oil, lilacs, and fallen leaves. Medium-bodied, the palate is tightly wound with firm, grainy tannins and bags of bright red berry flavors, finishing long and lifted.

The 2021 Langoa Barton comes in a specially designed, one-off, hand-drawn label and a sustainable cardboard box instead of wood, to celebrate the bicentenary of family ownership. The aromatics have actually moved up a step since I tasted it from barrel: intense blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, crushed violet and just a hint of eucalyptus. The oak is neatly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with surprisingly plush black fruit, a suave and harmonious Langoa with a dash of spice toward the finish. This is packed full of flavor and will be difficult to resist in its youth.