Château Taillefer, Pomerol,

Fruit remains extremely knitted together after ageing, dominated by coffee and spice aromatics on the opening beats. A trace of heat on the finish but this is unfussy, has Pomerol personality, and will be enjoyable over the next five to 10 years - just ensure you give it a good carafe to open up the brambled side to the black fruits. 39hl/h yield, harvest September 20 to 29, 40% new oak. Run by Claire Moueix since 2013.

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2019 Taillefer comes barreling out with notes of baked blackberries, stewed plums, and oolong tea plus hints of black olives and truffles. Full, rich, concentrated, and chewy, it has just enough freshness and a long, savory finish.

The 2019 Taillefer has evolved nicely since I tasted it from barrel. On the nose, vivacious brambly red fruit, Earl Grey, allspice and cedar aromas vie for attention. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, a liberal sprinkling of white pepper and a cohesive finish. This should age well in bottle.