2021
6x75cl
DP
£1,010.42
vintage
portfolio
2021
6x75cl
DP
£1,010.42
The feather in the cap of the Fürst estate, the Hundsrück has been recognised as an individual terroir since at least the 16th century. An intensely rocky, cool site, the wines often require more time to reveal themselves, rewarding those with patience. Stylistically, we see here a complete volte-face after the aristocratically styled 2020. The 2021 is more minimalistic, more reserved, more introspective. Very gradually it builds in the glass, teasing a certain dark fruited power, with hints of spearmint, smoke, herbs and grated nutmeg. Firmer in structure but with the most persistent finish, this is a GG in tight, forceful proportion. Widely agreed to be in the top handful of Germany’s very best red wines. Fermented with 100% whole cluster and aged in French barrique.
The Furst family is said to have been involved in winemaking since the 17th century, during which time Spatburgunder vines have been a constant presence in Burgstadt. The sudden death of Rudolf Furst in 1975 saw his son Paul take over, a tenure that saw the estate’s holdings increase in size from 6 acres to almost 40, and now Paul’s son Sebastian is taking the reins. As an estate known primarily for its outstanding red wines (though the whites are also very good), its primary holdings are the Centrafenberg Vineyard in Burgstadter itself, a red standstone, moderately steep, due south facing vineyard from where they produce both Centgrafenberg Cuvess and the Hunsruck or Hounds Back, a slightly ridged portion of the vineyard that they refer to as the fillet of Centgrafenberg.
The wines at Furst are some of the very finest, most elegant examples of Spatburgunder we’ve ever tasted. Through a combination of detailed manual vineyard work, some great vineyards, and the very lightest of touches in the winery, Paul and Sebastian are turning region’s reputation for somewhat rustic wines, on its head. Very often mistaken for Burgundy, albeit perhaps a little more texturally sleek, these are undoubtedly world class – and a must for any lover of Pinot Noir and Spatburgunder alike.
The modern era at this estate, under Rudolf's son Paul and his son Sebastian has seen purchases of parcels of vines in the historic Centgrafenberg and incredibly steep Schlossberg vineyards, both famed for their pinot noir production. Every effort is taken it the vineyards to keep yields low, including the replanting 10 years ago of 2/3 of the Schlossberg vineyard with Fin and Tres Fin Burgundian clones. High density planting, green harvesting and intense canopy management are all ways in which the Fursts like to make the vines suffer, in an effort to have them produce even finer, more intense fruit, and purer, finer more sophisticated wines. It is a policy that undoubtedly works, as the ever increasingly high quality output from this superb estate attests to.
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