Barolo, Riserva, Monvigliero, 2013
Gripping but stylish. Racy fresh salt-infused red fruits awaken the palate. Long vivid rose, alpine strawberry and wine-berry notes captivate and thrill, whilst a white pepper and rock-salt kick provide a bit of spice and interest to the long, long finish. A stunner. One of the great historic Crus of the area. The steep south-facing slope and, unusually for the area, the chalky sandy soils, give powerful wines of great tannic finesse, spiciness and minerality. There is also the fine perfume you’d expect from the river-influenced Verduno commune, where big day/night temperature differences build aromatics in the wines. For Riservas here the winemaking is the same as the other crus, though the wine is kept an additional two years in bottle before release. Long slow fermentation in open oak vats for up to 60 days, followed by ageing in large used Slavonian oak casks
critic reviews
The 2013 Barolo Riserva Monvigliero offers plenty of depth. Game, smoke, iron and a range of feral notes give the 2013 a decidedly rustic feel that also comes through in the big, burly tannins. This rustic, powerful and very animalistic expression of Monvigliero is not exactly appealing. Dried dark cherry, tobacco, licorice, leather, dried flowers and coffee give the impression of a wine that is maturing on a relatively fast track. Bombastic tannins further reinforce the impression of a Barolo that is very rustic, and that is likely to only become more evident with the passage of time. Both bottles I tasted showed similarly.