Etna Rosso, San Lorenzo, 2022
A different profile, a more blueberry note to the nose, a hint of menthol, There is a touch of Nebbiolo-like grip to the palate with a more savoury and herbal style compared to the Calderara. Energetic, complex and edgy, with a nice flow and velvety touch nonetheless. San Lorenzo is one of three sites that the estate considers to be a true Grand Cru. The soils here are marked by obvious lava flows which buried the oldest “Elliptical” soils deep into the earth. The only three sites of true “Elliptical” soils on the north side of Etna are Bocca d’Orzo, Calderara and San Lorenzo. San Lorenzo is the Contrada that marks the North West border of the DOC and therefore has the coldest climate of the three. This climate combined with soils especially rich in ash, makes for a unique combination.
critic reviews
Made with 100% Nerello Mascalese, the Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2022 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo is one of the top single-vineyard expressions from this prolific and visionary Italian producer. This celebrated site sits at 700 meters in elevation and boasts the deep ashy volcanic soils that make for the best farming. This wine does indeed reveal dusty ashy tones at the top with pretty wild fruit and dark cherry at the core. The wine is open-knit and textured with a glossy or polished feel. This release of 8,000 bottles ages in a combination of tonneaux and barrique for 16 months.
Remarkably pretty, the 2022 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo wafts up with an array of dried flowers, cloves and lavender. Lifted and finessed, this opens with a hint of candied orange that enlivens its core of tart wild berries. Brisk acidity keeps the experience fresh throughout. Staining the palate in concentration, the San Lorenzo tapers off gently tannic and crunchy in feel, leaving gorgeous floral perfumes to linger on. This is the understated darling of the Terre Nere portfolio, and I expect that cellaring will bring even more complexity.