Baden is a tough region to generalise about. Made up of nine distinct districts and spanning over 250 miles it goes without saying that climate, soil type and topography varies greatly. However, Baden is without doubt the heartland of Germany’s Spatburgunder plantings. Particularly fine examples are found around the Kaiserstuhl, thanks to a clement climate and limestone soils. David Schildknecht, contributor to the Oxford Companion to Wine, feels that particularly around Freiburg and Breisgau, the “higher proportion of calcerous soils promotes firm fruity acidity resulting in Pinot Noir that marries richness with vivacity, and whose virtues have become increasingly evident over the past two decades.” Standout sites from this part of Baden include Malterdingen, Mundingen, Kondringen and Hecklingen. White wines tend to be enjoyably fruity and simple in style, produced in the main from Weisserburgunder, Grauerburgunder and Muller Thurgau. As the reputation of Baden’s Spatburgunders has steadily grown, quality conscious young winemakers have regularly visited, and taken inspiration from, their Burgundian counterparts. In recent years that has meant starting to experiment with new winemaking techniques, vineyard practices, and sources of clonal material in an effort to further hone their style. The Bernhard Huber estate, now run by the ambitious Julian Huber, is a five-star producer in the region.

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