Volnay, Clos des Ducs, 1er Cru, 2007

The Clos des Ducs Lutte Raisonnée, made from vines that were treated with phytosanitary products against oidium and mildew in spring: Aromas of strawberry, rose petal, smoke, leather and earth became increasingly perfumed with air. Intensely flavored and fresh; not especially fleshy but really stands out for its inner-mouth perfumed lift and dominant strawberry and raspberry fruit character. Still a touch of leathery reduction throughout, but this wine is elegant and gripping, finishing with slowly rising length and substantial tannins that saturate the roof of the mouth. A separate cuvée, which Angerville called Biodynamic, also made from the upper part of the Clos des Ducs: Deeper, thicker and richer but more reduced and a bit lower-toned than the Lutte Raisonnée--less fruity and more about soil. Its tannins were also quite strong and building. Though close in quality to the Lutte Raisonnée, it was less fun to drink. The actual commercial release of the 2007 Clos des Ducs: Good medium red. An initial element of reduction dissipated to reveal lovely red fruit and floral perfume. Wonderfully silky and suave on the palate, with ripe raspberry, cherry, strawberry and rose petal flavors framed by ripe acidity (this wine's pH was the highest of all the vintages in the tasting and yet it shows lovely balance). Distinctly elegant, tender, classic Volnay premier cru with great appeal--and better than the two lots made from the top of the clos. Finishes juicy and gripping, with very refined tannins and subtle rising length. An excellent example of its vintage. (13.6% alcohol; September 7 harvest; 37 h/h; 3.84 pH; Angerville presented two components of this wine followed by the actual commercial release):