Dom Pérignon, 2005

Dom Pérignon’s 2005 makes a very interesting addition to the recent releases from this vintage-only house. Not only will this be one of the smallest Dom Pérignon releases in Chef de Cave Richard Geoffroy’s memory, but it is also interestingly a blend with just about the highest proportion of Chardonnay in it. After mixed weather conditions, selection at harvest had to be extremely strict, particularly for the Pinots, in order to ensure only the healthiest grapes made it into the press. Ripeness levels of what did make the cut were “on a par with 2005 Burgundy”, leading to “never-before seen (levels of) aromatic maturity.” And it is true, this is a rich and up-front, aromatically charged young Dom Pérignon, but it is also one that will age. A sense of freshness on the finish provides a fine counterpoint to the dense and powerful mid palate fruit; where the high proportion of Chardonnay is evidenced by an appealing buttery, white Burgundy-like texture. While there is plenty of immediate appeal here, not all of it is simply front-loaded fruit. Indeed the ripeness of the vintage is betrayed more by a slightly lower than average acidity than any overtly opulent fruit characteristics. Indeed, there is something savoury and gourmand in the background of this Dom Perignon that speaks of interesting nuances to come.