Syrah, 2021
Donovan’s “Concrete Syrah” has won many hearts and minds since its introduction in 2021. Superficially it sounds so simple: a crackling, juicy, un-oaked, peppery Syrah that functions as the early-drinking gateway to the more serious Ava bottling. In the end though, it is the drinking wine of a master Syrah winemaker, which remains extremely fairly priced. In 2024, 5-10% of the wine actually went into barrel, bringing a little added richness. Notes of black tea, olives, plums and currants compliment this delicious straight Syrah, from schist-based vineyards, fermented with 100% whole clusters.
critic reviews
Made in concrete, the 2021 Syrah is bursting with life and dusty florals and has a dark ruby core and brooding nature that is instantly impressive in the glass. Light to medium-bodied, the palate is compact with a tight mineral tension that reminds me of youthful Cote-Rotie. The wine continues to deliver pleasure as it unwinds and uncoils across the lingering, spicy, floral finish that brings me back for more. Syrah, with this much complexity and with 12.5% alcohol? Yes, please!