Château Les Carmes Haut Brion, Pessac Léognan, 2022
Guillaume Pouthier described 2002 as a year of, "Waiting. Patience. Worry. Wonder." As ever, one of the most singular and interesting expression from Bordeaux thanks to its high proportion of Cabernet Franc (40%) and the use of whole bunches (predominantly used on the two Cabernet varietals). Guillaume explained that the fruit was harvested at a potential alcohol of 14.8%, but arrived at 13.5% as a result use of whole bunch fermentations. Initially the bouquet is compact, but clearly displays real promise. With aeration, redolent Cabernet Franc aromas of crisp berries, rosemary, iris, peonies, a touch of white pepper and gorgeous floral fruits emerge. This is more baritone than the C des Carmes, showing a real depth and breadth of fruit on the sumptuous mid-palate. Layers of taut, perfectly ripe fruit, redcurrants, spices, some fine mineral notes - this has wonderful texture and mouthfeel. Guillaume explained that this is very much a case of "less is more". The macerations were an infusion, extracting only the most noble flavours and most refined tannins. It finishes with haunting length and long reverberating tannins. An absolute beauty. Aged in 70% new oak barrels, 20% 18hl casks and 10% amphora.
critic reviews
This was bottled in September 2024, so at the time of tasting has only been in bottle three months. The blend is 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot, with 70% whole-cluster vinification, and the élevage was in 70% oak barrels (75% new oak, 25% used), 15% in foudre s and 10% in terracotta amphorae. An expressive but also fine and delineated character on the nose, with scents of liquorice, blackberry, dried blackcurrant, dark chocolate, coffee bean and rose petal, showing an elegant Pessac-Léognan perfume. Retasted at the property the showing was perfectly consistent, straight from the bottle. The palate is charming, finely integrated and fresh, broadening out from a cool and quietly spoken start to a well-defined midpalate substance, correct, with finely polished and savoury fruit infused with classy fine-boned tannins with a powdery intensity which ease themselves onto the palate at the very end. There is a saline energy here, presumably tied to the used of whole cluster vinification, which enchants. A very stylish interpretation of the vintage, long and savoury, restrained in its body yet very expressive, and infused with those classy, mouth-watering tannins. Superb elegance, and a long energy. Give it ten years and more, this will be stunning. The alcohol on the label is 13.5%.
Intense ruby colour, careful extraction. Love this, less in the style of the vintage in terms of exuberance than many, with a trace of austerity to the architecture. Has keeps its distinct character, showing mint leaf, crushed rose petals, vivid with a purity of fruit expression. The 70% limestone is distinctive, the high Cabernet Franc is distinctive, and the choices they make in the cellar underline these distinctions. Guillaume Pouthier director, Guillaume Deschepper technical director. First year ageing, with 70% new oak, second year move into larger oak casks and 10% amphoras. 70% whole cluster.
The 2022 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a towering masterpiece from Technical Director Guillaume Pouthier. Dark and seamless in the glass, the 2022 presents an exotic mélange of black cherry, lavender, sage, blood orange, menthol, espresso and dried flowers, showing tremendous depth and substance in all of its dimensions. Time in the glass hints as to what is to come in the years and decades that follow. The 2022 is a co-ferment of 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot done with 70% stems that saw six full weeks on the skins. Élevage is 70% new oak, 20% 18HL cask and 10% amphora. Most importantly, all the elements are so well balanced that nothing sticks out. Instead, it is the wine's total sense of harmony that is mind-blowing. Magnificent.
The remarkable 2022 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is a strong candidate for the title of wine of the vintage. It's also one of the most singular, characterful wines being produced in the region today. Unfurling in the glass with complex aromas of blackberries and cherries mingled with notions of exotic spices, orange zest, pencil lead, rose petals and vine smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a velvety attack that segues into a layered, seamless and multidimensional mid-palate framed by rich, powdery tannins. Pure, perfumed and penetrating, this blend of 40% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 26% Merlot is a brilliant success that caps a decade of relentless work by Guillaume Pouthier and his team that have seen Les Carmes Haut-Brion emerge as one of Bordeaux's leading estates. It checks in at a mere 13.5% alcohol, with a very healthy pH of 3.64.